David Smith
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The 80-year-old gentleman’s eye twinkled when he issued the challenge to guess why he and his wife were staying in the four-star hotel on the banks of Lake Windermere.
“It’s your wedding anniversary,” I venture. A decent guess, but one he trumped immediately with: “No. It’s our honeymoon. And this is the perfect place for it.”
A fellwalker in his heyday, the gentleman had stayed at the Dungeon Ghyll hotel in Great Langdale for 20 summers, rising early and striding straight out of the front door onto the magnificent surrounding fells.
Those days were long behind him and he was looking to experience a different side of the Lakes now. Lakeside is a far cry from Dungeon Ghyll. It is not really an ideal base for fellwalkers as it’s a 40-minute drive from the southern tip of Windermere to the nearest high fells in Langdale. But it is a place for romance.
Set yards from the shimmering lake, surrounded by the gentle slopes of southern Cumbria, it’s a picture of tranquility. Contented ducks waddle across the lawn at 11am daily to be fed bread, and contented guests waddle across the conservatory daily at 3pm to be fed gigantic afternoon teas which could sink battleships.
Our romantic octogenarian had an intimate knowledge of Lakeland and had chosen his location wisely. He was able to take his bride on the nearby steamer up the lake to Ambleside and, best of all, the couple celebrated their wedded bliss with candlelit dinners in the gourmet Lakeside Restaurant.
It was at that point that my (male) companion and I parted ways with the romancers and headed for the funkier, John Ruskin brasserie. With its less pretentious ambience, and eclectic menu, including an eye-popping bread and butter pudding, it’s the perfect counterweight to the Lakeside Restaurant.
Whichever restaurant you choose, the engaging service is the best part of the Lakeside experience, unless that is you crave old-world stiffness and formality. The hotel goes out of its way to employ local people and 90 per cent of staff are Cumbrians by birth. The policy creates an authentic Lakeland atmosphere of informal warmth and hospitality, and it also results in a low turnover of staff because they are tied to the local area. Cumbria’s southern cousin, Cornwall, does not have quite the same yearlong tourism industry and is forced to rely more on seasonal workers on short-term contracts.
The informal touch also comes from the hotel being independently run. Managing director Neville Talbot maintains close ties to staff, regularly stays in his own hotel and sees personally to the daily floral displays.
Stuffiness is absent, but that does not mean guests’ privacy is not valued. The hotel can easily host 180 guests and leave them space to unwind. This is because of the curious L-shaped layout with its many alcoves, and cosy bars to retreat into. Roaring fires, local ales, wooden panelling and muted, pastel shades create a relaxing ambience, maintaining some of the feel of what was originally a 17th-century coaching inn.
Lovers of Las Vegas might bewail the lack of excitement, but stressed-out executives, romantic couples, or families with young children - who can ride the nearby steam train, or visit the local acquarium – will be in their element.
Lakeside is also perfect for visitors who barely want to move from the hotel. After grazing on one of the tempting breakfasts they may not actually be able to. No matter. They can gaze at the lake from the conservatory, take dips in the modern spa’s 17m pool, or enjoy a Swedish sauna. Even that may be too energetic for some. They may simply want to gulp the fine local ales in the bar in front of a roaring fire.
Reviews on tripadvisor.co.uk are overwhelmingly positive with an average rating of 4.5/5 (most are full marks but a single curmudgeonly 1/5 lowers the tally). There is particular praise for the caring staff, splendid views, good quality food and smart spa.
Bottom line: double rooms cost from £180 - £430 per night including breakfast.
Best thing: friendly staff are local - 90 per cent Cumbrians
Worst thing: warm, airless corrdiors
Access all areas: There is one specially built room for wheelchair users.
Need to know: Lakeside Hotel, Newby Bridge, Cumbria (015395 30001; www.lakesidehotel.co.uk)
Food: 7 out of 10
Service: 9 out of 10
Room: 7 out of 10
Value: 7 out of 10
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