First impressions: Approach on foot and The Three Swans appears typical of an historic market town coaching inn – white painted exterior with large bay windows, black woodwork and ironwork and overflowing hanging baskets – welcoming and quaint. But park your car at the back and you’ll see mixture of outbuildings of varying ages housing bedrooms and functions rooms; subsequent extensions owing to the success of the hotel as a wedding, conference and weekend break venue. While this rear courtyard is well maintained with more hanging baskets and discreet signage, the buildings are sadly not in keeping with the style of the hotel’s attractive 16th century façade.

The hotel is operated by Best Western, but branding is subtle, so the hotel has a feel of an independent but the benefits of chain-ownership, such as extensive in-room facilities (see below) and services such as room service, laundry and alarm calls.

Why it’s special: The hotel’s history and prominent location on the bustling High Street means it remains popular with residents and visitors for drinks and dining, so it doesn’t suffer from the all-too-common soulless hotel bar syndrome. There are also fascinating stories associated with the hotel as a result of its age. If the portrait of John Fothergill that hangs in the bar, where he was host in the 1930s, is moved, strange goings on result... little more information is forthcoming, but it’s all good fun.

Hitting the sack: The 61 bedrooms are all non-smoking and include 28 superior rooms located in one of the less attractive blocks at the back. My room in this block had uninspiring views of the car park, but to its credit, wireless internet access was free (throughout the hotel), and there was television with satellite channels, tea, coffee and biscuits, safe, iron and ironing board, and own-brand “BW” toiletries. The room was a soft duck egg blue with polished dark wood furniture and floral curtains and matching bedspread – a traditional style that is unlikely to date, but will fail to impress the boutique hotel crowd. The nicest of the rooms in the front of the hotel are the three overlooking the high street, although I can’t vouch for the noise levels.

Sampling the food: The smarter of the two restaurants, The Swans Restaurant, requires a reservation and requests smart casual attire. The décor is dated, with a sickly carpet and chairs covered in fabrics of varying colour, although they are comfortable at least. It’s above the reception in a cosy, verging on stuffy room, whose centrepiece is a series of griddles on which food is flambéed and grilled to produce dishes such as Chateaubriand (£46.50 for two people), and flambéed scampi (£19.75). The steaks looked good – nice cuts and cooked perfectly, and the lobster thermidor (£27) likewise, with fresh meat and a rich brandy cream sauce. A cheaper menu offers a choice of six starters at £5.95, including chicken liver parfait and roast parsnip soup, and mains for £13.95, which include pork belly with black pudding and apple tartlet or breast of guinea fowl. There’s also a vegetarian menu with up to six options, and downstairs in the conservatory is a bistro, which serves dishes such as pasta, steaks, soup and roasted cod for around £4.50 a starter and £8 for a main course. The menus also have some seasonal adaptations.

Breakfast, served 7am-9.30am weekdays and 7.30am to 9.30am on weekends means there’s not much opportunity for a lie in. The cooked breakfast is best, as the buffet lacks fresh fruit, in favour of tinned, and otherwise offers a few pastries, cereals and juices.

Added attractions: The hotel has three rooms with four poster beds, draped in lavish floral fabrics and matching curtains, for romantic couples, and in the summer you can eat in the courtyard.

Access all areas: There are three wheelchair accessible rooms on the ground floor, and wheelchair access to the bar and restaurant.

Bottom line: Rooms start from £51 for a standard room and £55 for a superior at weekends (if you book a Friday and Saturday night, otherwise it's £62 and £73) and £83 and £94 respectively during the week. Rates include taxes and breakfast.

What we think: The décor is dated but the important elements – efficient service, good food and clean rooms, are all in place.

Contact: The Three Swans Hotel, High Street, Market Harborough, Leicestershire, LE16 7NJ; tel. 01858 466644; sales@threeswans.co.uk; www.bw-threeswanshotel.co.uk

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