The Fox and Anchor is the latest invention from the Malmaison/Hotel du Vin
camp. It’s a radical departure from the boutique hotel offering – an old
fashioned pub with just six bedrooms – no trendy bar, no brasserie – just
real ale and good pub grub.
Downstairs are all the hallmarks of a Victorian pub – colourful tile work,
mosaic tiling, a mahogany and brass bar and leather banquettes lining one
wall. The walls are adorned with black and white photos of burly butchers
from the Smithfield meat market opposite, and the bar is topped with jars of
pickled eggs and pork cockles.
In the back room are a number of tables separated by wood panelling and
candlelit at night – it’s more intimate but maintains the feel of an old
London pub.
That said, there’s a little of the Malmaison touch in the décor upstairs – a
Gothic colour scheme of dark, broody browns hues, with cushions in soft
velvety textures.
My room, St Bart’s, was large with lead-latticed windows looking onto the
Clerkenwell streets behind Smithfield. The double-glazing was effective at
dulling the noise of lorries coming and going from the market but light
sleepers might want to request a room on the top floor to cut out street
noise.
The bed was large and comfortable, there was a desk with internet access, a
minibar, iron and ironing board, walk-in wardrobe and flat-screen television
with Sky plus a Bose CD and DVD player with straight-forward instructions.
The bathroom was also large with a walk-in rainsoak shower, claw-foot bath,
elegant metal sink that looked like it was once a childs’ bath, and divine
Miller Harris toiletries.
Our evening meal in the pub began with two ales served in tankards, then a
bottle of French red from the extensive wine list. We started with a pint of
prawns (£8.95) and ale-cured salmon (£6.95), both fresh and delicious, then
I had the burger (£10.50)and he had a rib eye steak (£16.95). Both were
served on chunky wooden blocks, cooked to order and in generous portions –
it was one of the best burgers I’ve eaten. We finished off with a
knickerbocker glory (£4.50)– another success.
Where usually I’d order delicate fish dishes or unusual combinations of food,
this simple menu of the fish-and-chips and steak-pie variety got me
salivating over good pub grub again – and I wasn’t disappointed.
The service throughout was cheerful, informed and efficient. Landlord Scott
Malaugh sets the tone with his witty banter and the staff follow suit –
which, together with the great food, explains why this pub was full on a
Monday evening.
Breakfast, served 7am-11am was also good, and not bad value at £8.95. There
was no fruit, cereal or yoghurt here though – it’s fry-ups or eggs Benedict
with juices and tea or coffee. If you want something healthier you can elect
to have breakfast at the Malmaison a couple of doors down – which is also
where you check in and out.
There's only two reviews on Tripadvisor.co.uk
so far as the Fox and Anchor, in its latest incarnation, is still pretty
new. Users gave it three and four out of five, with both complaining about
the steep climb up the stairs to the bedrooms - but then, what do you expect
in a Victorian pub? Both praised the food and location.
Bottom line: Rooms cost from £165 mid-week and from £99 at the weekend
(excluding VAT).
Best thing: the pub grub and the service
Worst thing: not being able to check in at the pub
Access all areas: The pub is wheelchair accessible but the rooms are
accessible only by stairs.
Need to know: The Fox and Anchor, 115 Charterhouse St, Smithfield,
London. EC1M 6AA; tel. 0207 250 1300; www.foxandanchor.com;
smalaugh@foxandanchor.com
Food: 9 out of 10
Service: 9 out of 10
Room: 9 out of 10
Value: 8 out of 10
