Gareth Scurlock
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A fire on the M11 and no Stansted Express meant one missed flight, then after
a taxi to Heathrow, I arrived 10 hours late to walk into Dublin's worst
riots for 20 years on the route of my planned walk. Not an auspicious start.
Happily, the next morning my friend Gillian and I were able to step out on the
route of the first of two guides to be published on the Visit Dublin website.
Tourist boards are starting to catch up with airlines, publishers and
individuals (audio bloggers if you like) by offering audio guides to their
destinations. Some of the first to release podcasts include Edinburgh,
Liverpool and Cumbria, as well as Dublin.
Switching on the iPod I was expecting the lilting Celtic tones of a
green-eyed, dark-haired windswept enchantress from the outer reaches of the
Emerald Isle. I imagined this seductive voice would be interspersed with
traditional Irish music as you walk between sights.
What I didn't expect was to be greeted by the rather dull voice of an aged
Dublin historian, writer, drawer and painter with the only music being the
striking of a single piano key denoting the next stage of the journey on the
accompanying map. "My name's Pat Liddy and I have been writing about
Dublin and drawing and painting its many interesting buildings for several
decades now", began our host, sounding like he had, indeed, been around
for many, many decades. "I thank Dublin Tourism, for making this tour
and the other tours in the series possible", continued Pat as I yearned
for the tedium of the formalities to be over.
We are informed that the 2km route should take about 90 minutes. We are
welcome to stop and explore museums and parks further or to shop and stop
for refreshments, but this, unsurprisingly, "would add to the overall
journey time". We are told that most road crossings will be with the "aid
of pedestrian traffic lights", but "take care stepping off
pavements" and "check for traffic". I suppose it is better to
be safe than sorry in this litigious age.
The occasional unscripted pause as Pat reads the script and very slight
stumble is forgivable. A brief echo in the recording was but a tiny editing
problem that hardly distracts. It is clearly aimed at being informative
without being flashy. And actors' voices cost a bomb, so this seems to be
the best compromise - a free, authentic guide full of information provided
by an expert.
Annoyingly, the walk is not split into different 'tracks', so you can't skip
between stages or find your place if you accidentally fast forward to the
end or rewind to the beginning. Pausing the guide when walking between
stages is easy enough, however.
The accompanying brochure has an excellent map, drawings and a summary of each
stage. Our man's knowledge is all-encompassing, and you are bombarded by
genuinely interesting information. Even an old tobacconist shop (J. J. Fox)
is interesting when you discover that it was the only place in Europe to
maintain a supply of Havana cigars during the Second World War, and the
founder's grandson had the idea to start the world's first duty-free shop in
Shannon airport. Or maybe I'm easily amused.
If you are interested in the great authors of Dublin you'll find out plenty
about who studied in Trinity College, where they lived and a lot more. The
city and route is relaxing compared to most capitals, and we discover things
about every statue in the city centre, from Molly Malone on the first walk
to Daniel O'Connell on the second.
Pat has recorded both of Visit Dublin's podcasts, this first one - Georgian
Dublin - and a second, a guide to the 'Historic Central Northside Dublin',
with plans to record nine more themed walks of the city.
Our Northside walk kicks off with our amiable assistant Pat narrating the same
introduction, this time in a brighter, louder voice. Perhaps he partook in a
couple of pints of the black stuff in between. The recording is a little
clearer and at higher volume as Pat leads us from the General Post Office,
scene of the Easter Uprising, around a course just north of the river
Liffey, much of which focuses on those events in 1916.
There's a big plug on the way for the shopping centres en route (although they
don't pay to be mentioned) as you hit St Mary's Street, but at least it
breaks up the politics.
At the end of both walks Pat, who wrote the guide, directs us to his website,
where you can book his €10 walking tours. But who needs to be part of a
paying tour when you can do it at your own pace and get the information
straight from the horse's mouth? It's definitely worth trying, especially
if, like me, you would never go on a guided group tour. I found out nuggets
of information that I would not have sought otherwise, probably more than in
the guidebooks and without having to pause to read.
What's more, I got one of my wishes - not the enchantress, but a burst of
uplifting traditional Irish music to round the whole thing off.
Further information: download the podcasts from the Visit
Dublin website
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