Udai Bilas Palace, Dungarpur

THIS sleepy town and its two palaces south of Udaipur are found down a lane off the Indian Prime Minister’s pet highway project. Guests stay in the time-warp lakeside summer palace built by Harshvardhan Singh’s ancestors, to which he has added an infinity swimming pool. Priyadasni, his wife, who has demonstrated Indian cuisine in Swiss hotels, welcomes keen amateurs into her kitchen. Doubles from £32.

Details: 00 91 2964 230808, www.udaibilaspalace.com.

Shiv Niwas Palace, Udaipur

MAINTAINING owner-management through thick and thin has paid off for Arvind Singh Mewar, who now oversees the only one of the grand Rajasthan palace hotels to have retained its royal splendour and atmosphere. Rooms hung with paintings from the royal Mewar collection surround a central courtyard with shade trees, pool and tables, creating a house party atmosphere where guests can be informal by day, dressy by night. The bar has stupendous regal chandeliers. Do not miss Durbar Hall and its crystal collection. Doubles from £69.

Details: 2942 528016, www.hrindia.com.

Devi Garh Fort Palace, Delwara

ETHNICITY is rejected in favour of sleek minimalism; even the pool is inspired by the clean geometry of local step-wells. Beneath it, the spa is serious enough to draw guests for week-long stays. Plenty of space for peace, glorious countryside views at every turn, and a chef who welcomes food discussions. Suites from £178.

Details: 2953 289211, www.deviresorts.com.

Deogarh Mahal, Deogarh-Madaria

THIS was the stronghold for one of the sixteen umraos (feudal barons) of the powerful Mewar kingdom. Today, with their reputation as host-hoteliers established, the two sons of the last ruler have reduced the number of guest rooms to strengthen the intimacy of a private visit. Their father takes pride in the family collection of fine Deogarh School paintings. Doubles from £36.

Details: 2904 252777, www.deogarhmahal.com.

Chhatra Sagar, Nimaj

ANOTHER pair of entrepreneurial princely brothers at work, but the concept is far removed from palace splendour. In 1890, Thakur Chhatra Singh of Nimaj in the Marwar kingdon (capital, Jodhpur) built a reservoir to store water and attract animals and birds for his hunting pleasure.

A century later, the brothers have set up a campsite on the dam: six beautiful tents stitched in Delhi, with permanent bathrooms. Each overlooks the lake, for glimpsing sunrises and waterbirds. Doubles from £87.

Details: 2939 230118, www.chhatrasagar.com.

Louise Nicholson

Killa Bhawan, Jaisalmer

THIS is not a palace hotel, but it is built in a spectacular location on the ramparts of Jaisalmer’s enormous sandstone fort, and is the loveliest place to stay in this remote western city, Cath Urquhart writes.

The manager, Manu, was extremely welcoming and gave me the pick of the five rooms — only two of which have their own bathroom. Most rooms have amazing views over the city, and are decked out in bright colours with silk cushions, throws and pretty wrought iron lights. A steal at £25-£30 a room per night.

Details: 2992 251204.

• Alastair Sawday’s Special Places to Stay — India (£10.99, www.specialplacestostay.com) has other excellent suggestions.

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