If you are thinking of crossing the Channel for a Christmas shopping trip, it’s time to consider Dunkerque as an alternative to Calais or Boulogne. With three new ships that carry cars, vans, motorhomes and lorries – but not coaches – Norfolk Line sails regularly from Dover and takes two hours to reach the principal port of French Flanders.

On arrival, it’s wise to head straight for the town. The 13-mile journey is mostly across a bleak, industrial landscape, but parking is free in the town, the Christmas lights are already shining and all is being prepared for the festivities that start on December 1.

The central square with a statue of Jean Bart, the 18th-century privateer, is a good place to begin exploring the centre. Children will be able to enjoy sledge runs in the square throughout December and up to Epiphany.

Overlooking the square is the 15th-century Belfry, with panoramic views of Dunkerque, its harbour and beaches, and a tourist office on the ground floor. St Eloi church, which snuggles up to the belfry has been destroyed several times and restored – and its entrance is now across a busy road.

Along the road is the town hall, with its imposing tower and where an ice rink will welcome skaters from December 1. Behind the Belfry, in Place Roger Salengro, the Christmas market will offer traditional food and drink, jewellery, gifts and Christmas decorations from December 7 until December 24.

The market will supplement the town’s 400 shops, which include brands such as H&M, Mango and Zara, and which will open additionally on the three Sundays before Christmas. Speciality stores are the places for such local goodies as blonde beers, cheeses, gingerbread and pot au flesch. The Auchan supermarket, on the outskirts of town towards the ferry terminal, has wines and beers at prices to break the Chancellor’s heart.

To soak up the Christmas atmosphere, walk beyond Place Roger Salengro to the harbour and the Port Museum. Located in a late 19th-centu-ry warehouse, it tells the history of Dunkerque from the 17th century to today, featuring privateers, herring fishermen and the cod fleets that sailed to Iceland for six months every year. Paintings and panoramas of the port line the walls and a second-floor room holds models ranging from schooners and clippers to container ships. Tied up on the quay outside are the Duchesse Anne, a three-masted clipper built in 1901 as a sail training ship, and the Sandettié light ship that guarded a sandbank in the Channel from 1949 to 1989. On the other side of town is the sandy beach of Malo-les-Bains. It is hard to imagine the horrors that took place here in 1940 as the Luftwaffe straffed Allied troops awaiting evacuation – and also surprising to find how many Art Nouveau villas surivived along the promendade.

No civilised trip to France can pass without sampling its food and Dunkerque has its share of excellent eater-ies. If you are in Malo, lunch overlooking the sea at Bistrot de la Plage and dine at the Hotel l’Hirondelle.

Next to St Elio church, on the corner of Place Jean Bart, Le Grand Mor-ien is a good choice for a quick meal, while Le Corsaire beside the Port Museum is definitely a place to linger.

With one exception, short breaks to Dunkerque are best booked separately with Norfolk Line and the town’s tourist office. The ferry company offers 24-hour trips for a car and up to five passengers for £19 return and three-day return trips for £29. These prices are valid until December 13.

Short breaks to the French Flanders region range from a maritime discovery weekend including a museum pass, free public transport, dinner, B&B for a night from €67 (£47) a person to a gourmet weekend break from €99. A golf and ramparts weekend costs from €109 and includes dinner, B&B in a hotel in the fortified town of Bergues and a round of golf on the course on the site of a fort between the town and Dunkerque.

Real France Real Close has an inclusive trip from £59 a person, with a Norfolk Line crossing with car and B&B for a night at Hotel l’Hirondelle.

www.norfolkline.com – 0870 8701020; www.flandrecotedopale.com – 00333 28262789; www.realfrancerealclose.com – 0870 1434646