Matt Rudd
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Read our special on travel to the USA
We would like to apologise for a terrible omission in last Sunday’s feature 10 Steps to a Stress-Free Summer. We forgot to include “Don’t go to the USA”.
Fortunately, Michael Chertoff, baldie boss of the Department of Homeland Securitisation, has now reminded us that we’re not wanted. Or, rather, that we are wanted (because tourists bring lots of nice money with them), but only if we jump through lots of hoops in the process.
Chertoff has let it be known that Europe is a platform for terrorism. He says it’s important to step up checks on travellers. Yes, that’s right, step them up. In fact, it would be really, really great, he didn’t say, but was probably thinking, if all we prospective visitors could be so good as to stay at home and just send our holiday money over in an envelope.
“Travelling to the US offers experiences like nowhere else on earth.” That’s what it says at discoveramerica.com, the official travel and tourism website of the United States, and it’s absolutely right. Nowhere else can a visitor expect such a spirit-crushingly frosty reception.
A preflight e-interrogation, epic queues at immigration, thin-lipped questioning from aggressive border guards, and an outside chance of a rubber-gloved rectal rummage are all part of the fun. So, if Chertoff and co want to tighten Fortress America further, it’s time we considered other more welcoming holiday options. Such as Iran or North Korea.
Here are a few sunny alternatives to consider before you book your flight, take your shoes off and try to convince our friends stateside that you’re not intent on the destruction of America, you’ve just come for the hamburgers.
NEW YORK? Try Hong Kong
New York is irreplaceable, but so is Hong Kong, so replace it with that. As approaches go, the Star ferry from Kowloon trumps the Staten Island ferry to Manhattan. The view from the urinals at Felix, the Peninsula hotel’s penthouse bar, is just as jaw-dropping as the one from the Top of the Rock(efeller).
And, most important, iPods are the same price. Yes, you have to sit on the plane for another five hours, but there are no queues or rubber-glove probes at the other end. Hong Kong likes tourists.
The Peninsula (00 800 2828 3888, www.peninsula.com) has the classic views and the Rolls-Royces, with double rooms starting at £233. Or try the Philippe Starck-designed Jia Boutique Hotel (00 852 3196 9000, www.jiahongkong. com), in Causeway Bay. Trendy, but not irritatingly so, it has doubles from £130. Fly to Hong Kong with British Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com) or Virgin Atlantic (0870 380 2007, www.virgin-atlantic.com); from about £450.
DISNEYWORLD? Just east of Paris
How will poor little Johnny manage without his once-in-a-lifetime overdose of saccharine-soaked, rodent-based Floridian amusement? By being dragged to Disneyland Paris instead – yes, like Father Christmas, Mickey Mouse can be in two places at once.
And, by hopping on Eurostar rather than a 747, you’re reducing your carbon footprint as well as your chances of immigration-based superhassle. Thomas Cook (www.thomascook.com) does easy-peasy packages from shiny St Pancras; from £326pp for three nights at Disney’s three-star Explorers Hotel, based on two adults and two children (aged 2-11).
Or skip Disney altogether and try a more continental take on the theme-park experience. PortAventura (www. portaventura.co.uk), an hour from Barcelona, offers a less commercial family adventure than the big American theme parks – and the food is more sophisticated.
COWBOYS? They do it better in Spain
American tourism has a knack of spiralling into toe-curling theme-parkery at the drop of a Stetson, so finding a genuine ranching experience (free from wannabe actors recreating pukey scenes from City Slickers) isn’t easy. Why not go somewhere where men are still men and cowboys still herd cows (as opposed to driving a toy train around the OK Corral)?
You have two options (yeehah!): the Argentine pampas or Extremadura, Spain’s wild west. The first option is obviously half a planet further away, but comes with excellent steak: talk to Last Frontiers (01296 653000, www.last-frontiers.com) about a tailor-made gaucho adventure. An eight-night trip, with four nights being a cowboy and three in Buenos Aires, starts at £1,995pp, including flights from Heathrow.
Relatively speaking, the second option is in your back garden, but what a wild and thoroughly overgrown garden it is – join the vaqueros, Spain’s more grizzled answer to the cowboys, through Ride World Wide (01837 82544, www.rideworldwide.com).
VEGAS, BABY? Macau, darling
Until recently, every casino in this former Portuguese colony was owned by one man – the Hong Kong businessman Stanley Ho – and their services were pitched squarely at the Chinese gambler. Then the Chinese changed the rules, allowing the Las Vegas billionaires Steve Wynn and Sheldon Adelson to set up shop.
Two years later, Macau has eclipsed family-friendly Lost Wages by offering glitzier casinos in which to lose your money, prettier croupiers to take it from you and fancier hotels in which to cry yourself to sleep. Leave Las Vegas to Bette Midler and head east.
Macau is a 55-minute ferry hop from Hong Kong (£18 return, with Turbojet, www.turbojet.com.hk; for flights, see above), which you’ve already chosen instead of New York. Stay nowhere but the Wynn (00 853 2888 9966, www.wynnmacau.com; doubles from £150).
HIGHWAY ONE? Do the wigglier version
Wind in your hair, curve after curve of beautiful bitumen ahead of you, rolling waves to your right: is there any road quite as liberating as California’s Highway One? Yes – it’s called the Great Ocean Road, and it runs west out of Melbourne. It’s got much less traffic, and you have absolutely no chance of bumping into a toothsome Arnold Schwarzenegger on a cafe terrace.
But you’re right, Australia is too far to go to make a stand against Mr Chertoff’s tourorist crackdown. How about the Amalfi, Highway One squished down, cultured up and served with a cornetto? It’s bumper to Cinquecento bumper in summer, so go in early May or late September. Citalia (0871 664 0253, www.citalia.com) can fix you up with a car and six nights’ five-star accommodation from £899pp, staying in Positano and Amalfi, flying from Gatwick with British Airways. Or do it yourself: airlines flying to Naples include Thomsonfly (www.thomsonfly.com) and EasyJet (www.easyjet.com). Travelsupermarket.com has a week’s inclusive car hire from £122.
ASPEN? St Moritz is posher
The Swiss resort invented the idea of snowy holidays for posh people back in the 19th century. Aspen is a johnny come lately by comparison – it has nothing to match the extracurricular activities on offer in its European rival, such as the Cresta Run and polo matches on ice.
Descent International (020 7384 3854, www.descent.co.uk) has a chalet there to rival the most lavish celebrity homes in Aspen – the palatial Chesa Albertini, built in 1655 and owned by the same family ever since. One week, arriving on March 9, costs £30,700 for a party of up to 12 (plus four children), including food as well as free-flowing champagne.
If you’re after North America’s empty pistes, rather than its celebrity lifestyle, try Canada. Fly into Calgary and take a road trip through the wilds of the Rockies and British Columbia. There’s a scattering of resorts there – Kicking Horse, Lake Louise, Fernie, Panorama – that make America look like Oxford Street on a Saturday afternoon. Packages are available through Frontier Travel (020 8776 8709, www.frontier-travel.co.uk).
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Scott from Los Angeles said:
"When arriving in Britain, I don't enjoy standing in a lengthy line or putting up with haughty inspectors asking irrelevant questions- however once past that point I find Britons to be friendly and helpful and I have had wonderful trips there."
I say exactly the same about visiting the US as a UK citizen. US Immigration is vile (tho I've had worse questioning in Gatwick), but once you're through what Julian Clary describes as "the usual, over-rigorous carry-on of barking American officialdom", you're out into a country of wonderful, gracious, welcoming people.
I was in Chicago for a few weeks (and indeed have experienced the same all over the States) and people would often say "Welcome" and "I hope you enjoy your visit to the States". These were regular punters in bars, not staff in hotel receptions. How often would you get a Brit or other European saying "Welcome" to American visitors over here? I'll make a good point of doing so next time I meet one.
John Dee, Brighton, England
After being arrested in the United States police officers take your picture and your finger prints.
When entering the US as a foreign national the first thing border control officers do id take your picture and take your finger prints.
America treats the rest of the world's citizens as though they are criminals. Amazingly, many Americans believe immigrants are THE cause of crime in the US.
It isn't that people have something to hide so they don't want to give information upon entering. It is that they have dignity, something distinctly missing from the US as of late.
MIKE, Maine, USA
I have been through Miami airport many times and have always been treated well by immigration. The first time I had been given the wrong Visa Waiver form. When I reached the front of the queue I was given the correct one, directed to the back of the room to fill it in and told I could come back direct to the front of the queue. I always try and have a few cheerful words with the officer - it can't be much fun for them.
DE, Bedford,
I flew into LA last year and after a long flight I was really annoyed to be made to wait for over an hour to clear passport control, the immigration officer was rude and unfriendly which I found very off putting,
I wanted to go to Florida this year but the US Embassy in London refused my wife a Visa as her passport is non EU, they said they were not convinced she would return to the UK, she has lived here for 6 years!!!
I will never bother to go to America again, they can keep it with their hostile attitude!!!
Jake Parsons, London , UK
If you've got nothing to hide, then you've got nothing to fear.
Chris R., Plano, TX
Sorry to disillusion Mr. Rudd but immigration officiers in the UK are just as officious & unfriendly as their counterparts in the US & many other countries. I visit England frequently and when departing Heathrow on my last trip I was summarily pulled out of line & informed I could either agree to a full body scan or if I refused a full body search. The individual imparting this happy news was rude and very self-important. I avoid JFK whenever possible but had one very positive experience there. Coming back from Europe through JFK several years ago I was in the last line for American nationals & next to the first line of non-nationals and witnessed somehting interesting. One of my fellow passengers was a muslim gentleman and was first in line when a European woman had the nerve to walk around him & attempt to go through immigration first. As this was after 9-11 I waited to see what happened. Was not disappointed--she was sent to the back of the line.
Stephanie, Baltimore, USA,
I agree we should do everything we can to make the immigration process more humane and pleasant and that it falls short of the reception that visitors to the USA deserve. However it is silly and laughable to recommend that you avoid a vacation on the basis of the treatment you get at the immigration checkpoints, especially from a Briton who presumably has traversed Heathrow more than once.
When arriving in Britain, I don't enjoy standing in a lengthy line or putting up with haughty inspectors asking irrelevant questions- however once past that point I find Britons to be friendly and helpful and I have had wonderful trips there.
I hope you all will come visit the USA, you are most welcome here and I wish you all pleasant vacations!
Scott, Los Angeles, California
LA is a lot friendlier, and much warmer and not that much longer of a flight. And you have just as much shopping. A good place to visit is the LA garment district downtown. Or try Beverly
Hills for higher-end fashions. This is a great time of year to visit the desert northeast and east of LA. Try a stay in Palm Springs,
which has 100+ golf courses, nice shopping and really fine
dinning and something called service. This is a great time of year to visit Death Valley National Park and especially Scotties
Castle. Or you may want to visit Yosemite valley in the Sierra
Nevada or one of our ski towns such as Mammoth. California is a lot more friendlier and we love tourists.
Don W., Ridgecrest, California USA
Oh please!!!! Going through immigration is horrible for non-EU nationals coming into Heathrow or Aberdeen for that matter. All non-EU nationals have put up with it the immigration nightmare at the british airports. Going state side is no different. Big deal, welcome to our world
Non-EU, Aberdeen,
Think flying into the US is terrible? Try flying into Britain! In my year there, I travelled in and out of the country several times. Each time, entering Britain was a nightmare! Terrible cues, invasive questions including 'do you have a copy of your bank statement?,' and horrific service. I was sure I wasn't going to be allowed to enter the country several times, despite my visa.
But, like flying anyware, smaller airports were friendlier. East Midlands was a walk in the park compared to Stansted, Gatwick, or Heathrow. The same is true of the United States. Minneapolis has a fantastic airport and is known for their service. There are many such airports. Check travel websites for advice. And when all else fails, but on a friendly smile and pray. America, like Britain, has many sites that are incomprable. Its only one day of the vacation. Good luck!
Kate A., Elk River, Minnesota
New York? Try Hong Kong - Sorry bud, but there's only one NYC, and although Hong Kong is a good destination, it's not the original big apple!
Disneyworld? Try Disneyland Paris - Paris is nice, but it aint Orlando. It doesn't have Sea World, Discovery Cove, Kennedy Space Center, Universal Studios, and the nicer weather esp this time of year.
Cowboys, they do it better in Spain? - Since when? Spain is nice, but can never ever replace the American West. The landscapes and natural beauty(Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, Zion, etc), and wide open spaces, not to meniton wildlife, so keep dreaming!
Vegas Baby, Macau instead - Vegas has been established for years, and Vegas is the entertainment capital of the world for adults. 24/7 everything!
Highway 1, do the wigglier version - PCH 1 is one of the most beautiful routes in the world, with a diverse landscape between 2 big & unique cities in the world, LA and SF.
Aspen?St Moritz instead- Well, at least Aspen is cheaper and less snobby!
Arlene, LA, CA/USA
it sure is sad how we treat our guests. All visitors get fingerprinted, photographed and interrogated. we have lost the friendly image we had internationally. Now a days, we are looked at harsh, bullish people whose govermnet endorses harsh treatment of visitors, even torture. folks, it is all politics. It took many presidents to create a positive international image for us, and yet it took one administration to ruin it all.
Bob, Dallas, TX
Ahh, it feels so liberating to take advantage of the loophole that arrogance against america isn't really arrogance. Sometimes its hard to quash reactionary sentiments we feel but must repress in the name of political correctness, but fortunately we have an outlet by way of USA-bashing that allows us to have our cake and eat it too.
In africa this summer, several countries charged "reciprocity" fees for visas for those with USA passports while we in the UK got off with the normal charge, despite that fact that UK fees are markedly higher in most cases. The USA's policy of family-based immigration means that you can't buy a green card with a chequebook, as one can in the UK and Canada. But as Mr. Rudd has discovered, its perfectly okay to bash the USA regardless of the fact that Hong Kong/Macau can and do routinely ban entry for political speech, and in fact the USA immigration agents have no right to a "cavity" search without the subject's consent.
Tom Briggins, Manchester, UK
Matt, some cheese with that whine? For years have I visited family in the UK & I have had to go through the same type of tough scrutiny everytime I have heard from others about how startling the scrutiny received upon entrance into the UK. About how startling it was to see police (or military) patroling the airports in full battle dress and carry Uzi's. I have experienced this myself. So,...you are now going to act the "injured party" because the U.S. has decided to take an equally tough stance before letting folks into our country?! Interesting. I'll try work up some tears that your inexpensive quick, easy trips to vist Mickey in Disneyworld, to lose/win money in Vegas, to sun yourselves on our beaches, or just a simple cheap shopping trip at our stores because the exchange rate is so good has been suddenly made more difficult. Still working the tears. Matt, I'm afraid you just come off sounding like a spoilt child denied thier favorite candy. Oh, & Bill from TX? Shush!
Lisa, Washington DC, USA
Bill in Texas may not want us to visit but the fact his economy is in recession and the UK isn't suggests otherwise. Without British tourists the economy of states such as Florida would implode.
William, Belfast, UK
If you think flying into the US is a hassle, try driving up to Whistler to ski, sit in border crossing for 4+ hours all to have a low-paid worker pull you over on a whim. And for all you that love to bash Americans for being ignorant about getting a passport, please remember these few little tidbits about our sorry lives: 1) The average American gets less than one week off per year. 2) Until very recently Americans traveled across the borders of Mexico and Canada with only a driver's license, and only the driver was asked for it.
So, since it takes at least a whole day of travel for Americans to reach any other country than Canada or Mexico, and they get less than a week for vacation, why get a passport? A 5 day vacation where 2 of those days are spent traveling is no vacation.
Chuckles, Seattle,
Stay home then...we dont need you here!
bill, dallas, tx
To shelly M,
if your daughter tried to enter on a tourist visa with the intentions of staying then its obvious she would be turned away, but if she tried to enter on a fiance visa (as is the correct way to do what she intended) then she has been unfairly rejected and should complain.
The UK is easy to get into, ask anyone there who was born abroad.
jack, cardiff, uk
With all the restrictions, the USA is still #3 in the world with the most foreign visitors, behind France and Italy. It's been this way pre and post 9/11.Go to www.tripadvisor.com, majority of the posters in the NYC and Orlando forum(especially the Orlando forum) are from the UK. At Discovery Cove in Florida, 80% of visitors there are non-US. Out of the 80%, 95% are from the UK. The Orlando forum has more posts/questions compared to the London Forum, again mostly from UK visitors. Not to mention, Las Vegas has A LOT of foreign visitors everythime we go there. When we were in Maui last Sept, majority of visitors were from Europe! Not to mention, on our Alaska trip last June, there were lots of foreign tourists! Same with Yosemite and the Grand Canyon! I could go on and on.. NYC seems more continental than a US city these days!
Ann, Pasadena, CA
UK treats Americans has the same way. My daughter (24 yrs old) recently flew to be with her fiance in Wales and start their life together, and was turned right away because she was honest at Customs. So UK is no different than America. If you say you are visiting and want to spend money, they love you, but if you say you want to live there, and possiblly work, you are sent home. So American is not so different from the UK. It's a shame that 9/11 has made all country borders like this.
Shelly M, San Diego, CA
A few years ago I was in transit in Atlanta on my way to Costa Rica. In the darkness of the aircraft cabin I wrote my date of birth on the wrong line of the green immigration card and was forced to go back and join the end of the long queue. Further humiliation was to follow. Why the hell you have to put a destination address on the form when you are in transit continues to baffle me, and no, I have never committed a crime of "moral turpitude", nor have I met an American that knows what that means. I resent being "processed" in this heavy handed way when it is clear, being in transit, I have no intention of staying there. Putting money into the hands of this uncivilised shower by patronising their services rubs salt in the wound. On my next trip I used Air Canada via Toronto
where I was made to feel very welcome, and from whence I over flew the "God's own Country" and the despots of its immigration service. First Choice now fly to Cost Rica direct from Gatwick.
David Elliott, Brighton, UK
Do you want to be treated well by friendly, (sometimes overly) earnest people and receive top-notch service in a country that still sees itself as intimately connected to the UK?
Do you want to make the most of the pound's strength and the dollar's weakness?
Do you want to have Spain, Paris, Hong Kong, Macau, St. Moritz rolled into one, rather than spread across four (and a half? what is Hong Kong, anyway?) countries?
Then forget the bollocks Matt Rudd invents -- he's merely being anti-Bush, but so are 70% of Americans these days. My girlfriend is Russian, I lived there for years and I know for her and me getting into America is infinitely easier than either of us getting into Russia. Ditto for simply being there.
Moreover, she has an easier time getting to the US than into the Schengen Zone or Switzerland. Rudd's anti-Bushism has clearly seeped into unreasonable (and unfair) anti-Americanism. Pity him -- I'm off to ski, gamble and enjoy New York and hope to see some Britons!
Benjamin Stanley, New York/London,
Why does everyone insist on flying into a New York or other northeastern airports from the U.K. ? It has been the pits for years. Rude personel and long lines are hallmarks of the area. If you want a better imigration or a friendlier experience, try flying into hubs like Dallas, Houston, Denver or Atlanta. Stupid is as stupid does.
John, Lewisville, Texas
If it wasn't for the exchange rate I am sure tourist numbers would plummet. British Airways make such a point of the fact that they own the terminal at New York JFK - well why don't they pay for more Immigration officers? Why don't BA have a Fast Track system for Business Class passengers? At least non-EU business class passengers at Heathrow have Fast Track.
William McBride, Belfast, UK
Chertoff's comments were meant for Americans to hurry up and get your passport. You will need it when returning from Canada and Mexico - you didn't need one before. As far as the writer of this article's problems - it depends on the time of day and where you are arriving. NY airports at any time are packed and everyone (Americans included) are unfortunately treated to the cattle car syndrome.
Come to the US and visit. See NY, but for goodness sakes get out and see a good deal more - its a big country! You can have a great time and a lot of fun especially with the current excange rates
Tom P, Martinsburg, WV,
I often wondered what was meant by the phrase 'special relationship'. Doesn't seem very worthwhile to me.
john problem, winchester, uk
I did have a very enjoyable holiday in the US in 1990. But currently I would not go there on principle - cheap or not.
Phil, Hong Kong,
If you're looking for value for your £'s, America is a great choice. BTW, has anyone flown out of Stansted lately? Security is a total nightmare, lines are long, & staff are very rude. There are so many restrictions & hassles that I only fly from there as a last resort. I think almost every airport security line I've been in recently has made me take my shoes off - not just American ones.
Gabi, Bishops Stortford, UK
"...itâs time we considered other more welcoming holiday options. Such as Iran or North Korea."
Having visited Iran last year I can thoroughly recommend it. And yes, they are very welcoming and friendly people. North Korea? Dunno, never been.
Beebo, Lyon,
Why let one negative writer ruin a dream?
The U.S. is a great place to visit and explore. Millions from around the world do it every year with no issues.
Art, Kissimmee, U.S., Florida
Hopefully, Chertoff will be out of a job soon and this ridculous notion that maxium inconveince equals security will fall to the wayside. As for long lines at immigration, I canât imagine anywhere being worse than Gatwick or Heathrow.
Annabel, New York, NY
Good, now is not the time to visit America
Paul, airstrip 1, uk