Surrounded by open countryside, it’s a Balkan gem, with part-cobbled streets mingling Modernist architecture and Classical and Baroque, with rarely a jarring note — all beautifully centred on the narrow depths of the River Ljubljanica. And here, on the riverbanks at the city’s heart, street life blossoms in summer.

Browsers will relish the cosy waterside market next to the Baroque St Nicholas cathedral. Stalls open every day except Sunday for food, art, clothes, crafts and knickknacks. Antiques are sold a few yards away along the river each Sunday, by stallholders looking as old and dodgy as their goods.

Surrounding all this are small and pleasant cafés crowded with locals — including many friendly and English-speaking students.

This compact city is highly walkable, and its pleasures are best viewed close up in detail: the National and University Library on Gregorciceva, for example, is a grand modern building crammed with intriguing marbled nooks and crannies (just walk in). Drift alongside the river towards the Trvnovo quarter where pubs and restaurants line the Eipprova. Slog up the steep, twisting hill to the 16th-century castle that gives brooding atmosphere to the city and its finest views.

WHAT ELSE?

This is a music city, once home to Mahler, with regular concerts, best of all at the charming Academia Philharmonicorum on Kongresni Trg (00 386 1 241 0800). The Slovenian National Opera and Ballet Theatre is beautiful in a grander style at Zupanciceva 1 -www.operainbalet-lj.si. A further pleasure is the National Gallery at Cankarjeva 20 (241 5434), though it’s hardly worth crossing the road for the modern art gallery dead opposite, where the walls are dull. You can also take a riverboat cruise and admire the small modern bridges, or rent a car and drive to Lake Bled, an hour away.

WHERE TO STAY

The Grand Hotel Union at Miklosiceva 1 (www.gh-union.si) is as handy for the river as it’s possible to get without waders, offering a ponderous sense of 1905 heavy-stone atmosphere, yet pleasant, airy rooms. The hotel has two wings: “Executive” and “Business”. B&B doubles in the slightly posher Executive from £100.

Computer buffs may prefer the new Domina Grand Media Hotel (www.dominahotels.it) — opening this month — a couple of miles out of the centre but linked by a shuttle bus. It claims to be one of the world’s most technologically advanced hotels: rooms have masses of on-screen services. B&B doubles with TV for £126; suites with home-cinema screen from £155.

The city also has what must be one of the most chic youth hostels in the world: a converted old prison with each “cell” designed by a different architect. Gorgeous, clean, light, no age limit, and only £14pp. Hostel Celica, Metelkova 8 (www.souhostel.com).

FOOD AND FUN

Head for Presernov Trg, by the river where the best cafés and bars line the waterfront, all full of jolly goings-on on warm evenings. Best restaurant is the Slovenian-Italian riverside Pri Vitezu, Breg 18-20 (426 6058). More traditional stomach-weighty fare is available over the water at the Sokol, almost opposite the cathedral entrance at Ciril Metodov Trg 18 (www.gostilna-sokol.com). Prices are reasonable rather than cheap.

NEED TO KNOW

Slovenija Pursuits (www.slovenijapursuits.co.uk) offers two-night breaks in Ljubljana from £370, including scheduled flights from Gatwick, transfers and B&B at the four-star Grand Union Hotel.

Slovenian Tourist Office: 0870 2255305.

EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) has started a new daily service, flying from Stansted to Ljubljana, from £31 return.

Reading: Slovenia (Lonely Planet, £10.99).

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