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My husband is doing a charity bike ride in November from Cochin, Kerela, and I
am thinking of meeting him out there at the end of the ride. We would like
to spend a week exploring the area. Please can you advise us of a good route
through the highlights, and a tour company that we should contact? Janet
Fine, Wimbledon
Doc Holiday responds: The state of Kerela only occupies one
percent of India's landmass, but this lush slither of land welcomes a far
larger proportion of the county's tourists. And for good reason too, with
its 550 kilometres of coastline, dense tropical forests, wildlife viewing,
historic towns, and beguiling backwaters.
Cochin is a romantic seaside town, built on sea trade and spices, and spread
across low-lying peninsulas and islands. It's the perfect place to start a
trip. There are influences from former traders, among them the Portuguese,
Arabs, Dutch and British. Catch one of the many little ferries that
criss-cross the water, and visit the Dutch Palace, blue-tiled Pardesi
Synagogue, and the enticing streets of Fort Cochin. Don't miss a performance
of Kathakali dance, where people gather before performances to watch the
dancers apply their make up.
From Cochin, travel up into the Western Ghats to Munnar, a little hill station
where you can tour a working tea plantation. Next day, press on to Madurai.
Although this chaotic city is across the border in Tamil Nadu, visiting the
giant Meenakshi temple is well worth the detour. Then head back to Kerela
and visit the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, spread over the Cardamon Hills.
Take a boat across the lake for great game viewing. Although glimpsing
tigers or leopards is rare, you'll have a good chance of seeing elephant,
monkeys, and bison, all sipping at the shoreline. Back towards the coast,
board a simple wooden houseboat at Allepey and cruise the tranquil
backwaters. Here you'll witness the unchanged pace of life and stay spend an
unforgettable night aboard the boat.
For some hotel suggestions, look at Brunton's Boatyard in Cochin
(www.nivalink.com/brunton), the Windermere Tea Estate
(www.windermeremunnar.com), Taj Garden Retreat in Madurai
(www.tajhotels.com), Spice Village Cottages at Periyar (www.cghearth.com).
Audley Travel (01869 276 218, www.audleytravel.co.uk) specialises in tailor
made itineraries, and could put together the above itinerary from about
£1,000pp, including B&B accommodation, travel in a private vehicle
with guide, all sightseeing, and some other meals. Flights aren't included,
but expect to pay about £500. Or try Cox and Kings (020 7873500,
www.coxandkings.co.uk), or Greaves Travel (020 7487 9111,
www.greavesindia.com).
For further information: good South India guidebooks are published by Rough
Guides (www.roughgiudes.com, £13.99), Footprint (www.footpringbooks.com,
£13.99). Or contact the India Tourism Office on 020 7437 3677, or visit
www.keralatourism.org, or www.incredibleindia.org
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