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The most marvellous train journey I have ever had has to be the one that we
did and are shortly to do again btween Nice and Monton. The French Riviera
has wonderful views all the way along here. Stop offs can be had all along
the way and each one is a wonder in its own right. The hop on hop off nature
of the journey really gives you a feel of a tour bus for what you see. I
found some very useful articles on what to see here and here. Kevin
Ireson, York
The journey from Palma to Port de Sóller reminded me of a scene from an Agatha
Christie thriller. The set - a train carriage from 1912 retaining all of its
original character replete with leather armchairs and sofas, ornate light
fittings, brass luggage racks and sash windows. The wooden Sóller train has
been weaving its way through the Tramuntana mountains for nearly 100 years,
powered by an electric locomotive - the only one of its type that is still
in use today. Leaving the bustle of Palma de Mallorca the railway takes you
northward, across the plain, then starts to wind its way up into the
mountains and through the 13 tunnels of the Serra de Tramuntana to reach the
valley of Sóller: a stunning 27km journey punctuated only by mountains,
olive trees and lonely white washed villas. With a stop en-route for photo
taking the train takes one hour to achieve its goal: Sóller, a charming
small town dominated by the old train station and a central square edged
with cafes and patisseries, accessible only via tiny narrow streets barely
wide enough for a car. Any visit to Mallorca should include the Palma to
Soller train journey - a step back in time and a chance to see the real
beauty of the island. Tory Russo, London
I stepped onto the train, ready to endure hours of discomfort, disease-ridden
food and harassment from beggars, perhaps even a mugging or two - I was 18
and knew I was about to become a proper 'traveller'. Imagine my suprise when
confronted with the softest squashiest seats, (that converted into beds with
my own curtain to separate me off from everyone else: at first I still
thought I might be need it), beautiful lush scenery and the delicious
morsels proffered up to my window at every station. I was travelling to
Chiang Mai from Bangkok and was most disappointed, no-one at home would be
interested in this tale. The curtain stayed open the whole way - Rhian
Hampson-Jones, Windsor, Berks
It was New Year's Eve as we boarded the Red Arrow train at 11pm in Moscow. It
was a bitter cold walk to our carriage on Platform 1, snow falling steadily.
As we stepped onto the train, warm air caressed us. We opened our Champagne
and shared it with our travel companions. Supper was served in a Victorian
style restaurant. As we slept we slowly chugged across the ‘Doctor Zhivago’
landscape, arriving at 6am in St Petersburg with no one to be seen but our
guide - Maggie Skilbeck, York
The scenic railway of the White Pass and Yukon Route, narrow gauge - Skagway,
Alaska via White Pass Frontier to Lake Bennett, Canada - 40.6 miles and then
to Whitehorse, Yukon territory, 110 miles (1898-1900). Constructed to
connect the Gold Rush, Klondyke mines, to the outside world. The human
misery of the man-made ice stairway over the Chilkoot trail was superceded
by the dead-horse trail, which became the railway. It climbs 2805 ft with
gradients of 4% traversing dramatic mountain, glacier, and waterfall views,
tunnels and crossings over vertigo-challenging trestles. Like Alaska, it's
awesome, steeped in history, atmosphere and unsurpassed - Dan
Mooney, Howth, Co Dublin
My most memorable train journey took place between Sofia and Istanbul in
August, 2003. Whilst sitting in our cabin, two Bulgarian women entered with
screwdrivers and dismantled the wood panels on the wall. Out of a black
holdall bag came fake designer watches, which were then crammed into the
walls. When we got to the border crossing our cabin, tickets and passports
were checked. The watches of course had alarms which went off in unison -
just after the guard had left our cabin. We escaped a prison sentence - but
were not fortunate enough to get our free watches in return for our silence! -
Claire Davies, Bridgend, South Wales
Where is some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Europe - and where is
the best place to lose your passport and Inter-rail train pass? On the train
journey from Stresa, by Lake Maggiore, to Montreux. You travel from the
Italian lakes through the Simplon Tunnel, the longest rail tunnel in the
world, on to Spiez and across central Switzerland to the shores of Lake
Geneva. During a stop in Gstaad, my fellow inter-railer realised he had left
his bumbag containing all essentials in the train toilet of our now departed
train. After passing time over a coffee, the bag was waiting for us - having
been handed over by the conductor on our train to the one coming the other
way. Wonderful scenery and Swiss efficiency at its best - Pam
Ashing, Edinburgh
1960's Motorail, London to Edinburgh. The car tucked away, as we children
would shortly be. Frantic with excitement,spilling into a compartment shared
with my sister. Hairy blankets, two pillows, shoe cleaning kit; monastic
bunks, a fight for the top one. The blind, too stiff to open. Basin with
push-down taps, and small cupboard beneath, housing the chamber-pot, with a
stern sign warning 'No Solid Matter'. Much muffled hilarity. I woke at
Crewe, lifted the blind, blinked at sodium lights and tenders, then slept,
waking to the kindly steward bearing a tray. Blind up. Auld Reekie. My
heart's still there - Sarah Crowden, Wimbledon, London
In August 2000, my wife Senja, and I got married in Finland. For the
honeymoon, I thought that as a surprise she would like to relive a rail
journey I had taken five years previously. Imagine her surprise when, after
a 12 hour ferry trip to Stockholm, I informed her that we would be taking a
train to Narvik on the Norwegian coast. Through occasional breaks in the
rain, mist and fog my wife saw snow on the distant hills. On arriving in
Narvik, it was so cold and wet that we had to buy jackets. Then the fun of
finding a hotel began. A word of advice: Your honeymoon should not be spent
in the company of 20 others in the mixed dorm of a local hostel. However
love works in mysterious ways, as we are still happily married - Ray
Fitzgerald, Middlesex
It's 1994 and my husband fancies trying the newly opened Moscow-Vladivostok
Trans Siberian route. July finds 23 assorted British optimists and a nervous
Russian guide assembled at Moscow station awaiting the legendary Rossiya.
We expected modern, clean, with curtains, carpets, polished samovars, happy
helpful provodniks and reputedly awful food. We got filthy, crammed
with Russians, Stalin-esque provodniks, damp grey bedding and no air
conditioning. Windows cleaned at stops, bedding hung out to dry, vodka 50p a
bottle, carriage parties frequent, passengers increasingly grubby, food and
Russians wonderful. Lasting friendships made, and this was only the start - Susan
Sexton, King's Lynn
The Shatabdi Express, from Delhi to Chandigarth connects you with the
toy train at Kalka - a charming six-hour journey to Shimla, the summer
capital of the British Raj. This 96km narrow-gauge line built in 1924
ascends above 7,000ft, passing through 103 tunnels, lofty arch bridges with
spectacular views of terraced plantations, deep chasms and cool green
forested hills. The picturesque halts at the local stations, provides a
pleasant break where you're greeted by smiling Indian vendors. You finally
approach Shimla with its distant views of the snow clad ranges of the
Himalayas - Dougie Skilbeck, North Yorkshire
Tucked away around the back of the bustling main station in Nice is the
station for a journey with Train les Pignes. The name relates to the
pine cones which formerly helped to start the old steam trains. The train
takes you through the suburbs of Nice along river valleys and through
mountains and gorges to arrive at Digne les Bains three hours and 151kms
later. The journey provides a wonderful feast of scenery with plenty of time
to soak up the culture of fellow passengers - both locals and tourists. "Defense
de fumer" notices were carefully observed by all - except the guard
and ticket collector - Mary Gass, London
()
Can a train ever be a magic carpet? Yes, if it transports you from a dark wet
chilly January evening in northern France to a "fairytale" land of
mountains covered by a crisp white coating of snow, drenched in early
morning sunshine. The 18.30 sleeper train from Calais to Chur in the Swiss
Alps took hundreds of skiers every Friday night during the season in the
1960’s. This train no longer runs but you can still make the overnight
journey from Paris to Chur. While skiing may be the purpose of the holiday,
the journey can be pleasurable too - Nick Gilbey, Dorset
Mon billet a tombe dans la mer! Carefree, careless, 17 and broke, and
leaning on the scabby rails of the old Dieppe ferry, a gust snatched our
tickets from the top of my open bag. The wonderfully brassy French purser
took pity and provided a handwritten letter of explanation. With only her
letter and a doleful "mon billet a tombe dans la mer", I travelled
the French railways for three weeks to the south and home again - Penny
Isitt, Cambridge
Taking our two small, train loving boys on the 30-hour Beijing to Ulan Bator
trip was fantastic. Our four berth compartment in the old but comfortable
train immediately became a cozy home-cum-playroom. The exhilarating trip to
the buffet car through heavy doors, freezing wind and rattling carriage
connections was rewarded with homely Chinese cooking. The frequent trolley
service selling allsorts from noodles and toothbrushes to toys, provided a
contrast to the views. A highlight was the undercarriage change to
accommodate the different gauge sizes of each country - Annette
Moore, Bedfordshire
Earlier this year I travelled from London to the Sahara by train (well it
wasn’t possible to get all the way by train, we had to take a bus and then a
camel to reach the desert itself). The first leg was the standard Eurostar
experience to France, but in Paris things became more exciting. We boarded
the "train hotel" which took us to Madrid overnight and sipped
wine and ate cordon bleu food as we raced through the French countryside. On
waking the next morning we were greeted by the mountains, villages and
chateaus of north eastern Spain and after a day in Madrid it was time to
board a sleeper to Algeciras. Then, the ferry to Tangier and then finally,
with the most talkative "couchette mates" I’ve met, the Marrakech
Express into Morocco - Kate Marshall, Surbiton, Surrey
The first half of an 11-hour Trondheim to Bodo journey was classically
picturesque. Mountains looming beyond birch girdled lakes, in the pale light
of a midsummer night. But it's the final third, between Mo and Fauske that
haunts you forever. The train, bell clanging intermittently, cuts a red dash
between a low, white Arctic sky and a craggy plateux of grey rock, splotched
with tarns and remnants of winter snowfall. Steaming streams and waterfalls
fissure and animate the moonscape, then the rooftop of a weatherboard house
peeps from a crevice, suggesting human presence while punctuating the
sublime remoteness - Geoff Small, Staffordshie
Crossing Australia from Sydney to Perth on the "Indian Pacific" is
an adventure. You pass through time zones and areas where man and animals
have adapted to the harsh environment over many centuries. You travel from
eucalyptus covered mountains to dry dusty treeless plains and deserts seeing
kangaroos, camels and wedge-tailed eagles. Heading west settlements become
sparse and you finally reach Cook, a refuelling stop on the Nullarbor with
four residents where you were once invited to become ill to save the local
hospital - Chris and Hilary Makepeace, Cheshire
"I've told the guard you're deaf and dumb so stay silent for the 13-hour
journey," whispered Olga as she waved me off on the overnight train
from Kiev to Moscow. "If anyone spots you're a foreigner, the best that
will happen is you'll be robbed!" As the train pulled away, the man
opposite pulled out a huge knife and began to slowly peel a cucumber. I fled
into the corridor for the rest of the night, while he stretched out on my
seat, picking his gold teeth with the sharp point of his knife. - Maria
Marron, Reading
This summer we needed to travel back from Scotland to Southampton. The first
part of our trip was on the train from Mallaig on the West Coast of Scotland
to Glasgow. This is a fabulous trip and must rate as one of the greatest in
the world. We saw a Red Stag posing as if for a post card and many birds of
prey. The scenery is breathtaking, the train comfortable and the fare
reasonable. Do it if you can. - Liz Barron, Southampton
An epic journey down India's east coast from Calcutta to Madras took two
nights and almost three days. The bare, sweaty, second class carriage was
packed to bursting. The journey was punctuated by tales from a wise old man
holding court with stories which always ended with the proclamation "that
is the Indian way", and countless cups of sweet chai and herb-infused
omelettes delivered by boys at stations. When the train arrived, four hours
late, no-one cared. - Bill Tuesday, Watford
Late Spring, Iraq, 1977. My companion and I left the marbled halls of Baghdad
Central Station, on our way to Mosul, where we were due to meet old friends
from university. I soon realised I could have walked there faster. The views
at least were interesting. The train screeched to a halt. A man jumped off
and was shot, dead. Two guards told me he was a robber. Everyone just looked
away. - Keri Thomas, Birmingham
()
Battling altitude sickness in Bolivia, five of us journeyed from Uyuni to
Villazon, on the Argentine border. Our inept guide, Goncalo, had
nonchalantly secured us cheap "popular class" seats, and we were
soon escorting yelping housewives off our seats, whilst other child and
chicken-bearing locals harshly scrutinised our unwelcome arrival to their
carriage! Clinging to our seats for 10 hours the origin of train travel by "popular
class" seat became all too apparent! - Sean Morgan, Isle of Mull
My most enduring childhood memory was my annual trip from London to Brighton
onboard the Brighton Belle, its brown and cream livery giving the train such
a look of opulence. The coaches were reminiscent of an elegant Victorian
drawing room and on the downward run a liveried waiter would bring orange
juice with all the flourish and politeness of someone serving royalty. On
the return, afternoon tea was served from fine china with a teapot patterned
with the Pullman coat of arms. I decided that my father must be incomparably
rich - how else to travel in such style and afford to pay the 2/6 Pullman
surcharge - and 1/3 for me! - Richard Thomson, Surrey
The anticipation was palpable as our train gently eased out of Moscow, leaving
the chaos on the platforms behind. This was the big one. Over 5,000 miles
and three weeks until we reached our destination of Beijing. Having settled
into our tiny but cosy compartment, we ventured to the dining car where we
discovered that borscht was not the easiest thing to eat on the
swaying train. Cups of freshly picked raspberries and home baked bread from babushkas
on the platforms supplemented our diet as we watched Siberia, Mongolia and
China pass by. - Kathryn Warren, Mid Glamorgan
The rail journey from Innsbruck, capital of Austria's Tirol, to Reutte, a
provincial "outpost", is a captivating one. The sense of adventure
begins with a steep ascent out of Innsbruck providing aerial views of the
Inn Valley as the train twists and turns along the mountain's edge and dives
through tunnels. The descent towards the German border and back into Austria
is wonderland in winter as the train glides past the snow covered landscape
dotted with cross-country skiers and dominated by the Zugspitze, Germany's
highest mountain. - Liam O'Mahony, Co. Limerick
My most memorable train journey was spent struggling under the seat of an
overnight steam train from Mombasa to Nairobi dressed in a smocked Liberty
print frock trying to retrieve my pet bushbaby caught in the springs. Numb
to it's bites and the possibility of rabies and immune to the awe of sunrise
over the plains I greeted my mother at the bustling station covered in dirt,
tears pouring down my face but grinning. Circa 1950 - Carol
Freeman, Woodbridge, Suffolk
Oh look, it has curtains! We squealed, contented little piglets bouncing up
and down on the sprung velveteen seat of our own private compartment.
Picture it: 1992, two backpackers exhausted from a summer of toil - one
dishwashing in Lugano, one picking peas in Edinburgh. Now: Milan to Taormina
in style. What if the next compartment was even nicer? Shall we check? We
did - taking our excitement and backpacks - but leaving the upgraded tickets
behind. Thirty minutes later, punctured and petulant in standard class and
anticipating the very long and uncomfortable journey south - Alan
Spinks, Edinburgh
The joyous rail journeys of my youth in the 50's and 60's come back to me now,
travelling from Warsop in Nottinghamshie to Udine, Italy, to visit my
Italian mother's parents. The boat train from London to the couchettes from
Paris to Udine was an adventure to be savoured for a little boy who loved
trains. How I marvelled at the changeover in Paris, when confronted by no
available carriage and a row of reserved compartments, a French guy produced
a very large flick knife, broke open the lock on the door and everyone piled
on. The guard who arrived saw what had happened, gave a Gallic shrug and
promptly disappeared - David Taylor, Grantham, Lincs
Memorable? Inter-railing 1986, we decided to take in West Berlin, only we
hadn’t twigged that the inter-rail ticket only covered us to Helmstadt.
Travelling the umbilical rail up to Berlin, flanked on either side by barbed
wire fences and tank manoeuvres, was no time to discover we had the wrong
ticket and only a small amount of cash. As the ticket collector began taking
on all the menace of my worst KGB nightmare, a French speaking German man
intervened and paid our £50 excess, rationalising that an Englishman once
saved his wallet from being stolen in Paris. True European unity - Geoff
Corbishley, Sutton
Train journeys are all about the people - and in my travels from Venice to
Vienna and back I encountered some of the most unexpected caricatures I
could have imagined: from the elderly Italian gentleman who couldn't
comprehend that New Zealand would have a female Prime Minister to the three
jovial Ukrainians who offered me endless helpings of bread, cheese and beer
despite not understanding a word I said. Oh, and a Nigerian acrobat who'd
come to Austria to join the circus and was en route to erect the Big Top in
the next town - Natalie Gyles, Edinburgh
After two months Inter-Railing Europe in 1980, my Aussie companion and I were
adept. To avoid hotel bills, we took overnight trains and booked couchettes.
Laundry was a constant bane, so we washed our smalls and hung them on
washing lines strung underneath the top couchette. One evening we unpacked
our picnic of wine, bread, chicken, Ann was writing postcards and I was
knitting, when the conductor came by to check tickets. He opened the door
but doubled over laughing at the little home we had made and went off,
clutching his stomach and staggering, to fetch the other conductors - Sue
Kilbracken, Carrigallen, Leitrim
()
Calcutta had poisoned my 18-year-old English complacency as badly as it had my
stomach. I caught the next outbound train I could. At each station chai
vendors sang eerie songs and bony old women pleaded through the metal window
grate as tiny children swept the floor for money. I thought I glimpsed the
Ganges- a dirty little river and I fell asleepdreaming of the Thames. I woke
to a roar. I looked out at a vast freshwater ocean and everything living had
gathered on its banks. A man opposite smiled and whispered “Ganges” - Lewis
Jenkins, Hastings
My most memorable railway trip took me from Saigon in Vietnam to Llanrwst in
Wales via Algeciras in Spain. It took 15 days and nights travelling over
12,000 miles through eight time zones, two continents and 11 countries
traversed by five international express trains on five different railway
gauges. The seasons changed from a hot and steamy Saigon to spring and
cherry blossom in Beijing, winter with frozen rivers and lakes in Siberia
and then an early summer on the Gulf of Cadiz - David Jones,
Denbighshire
One evening in March, 1967, I crossed from Poland to the Soviet Union and
transferred to a steam-driven sleeper. Sleep came easily – for a while. I
woke suddenly to almost tangible, claustrophobic darkness. The carriage
lights were inoperable and the train was hurtling through the night.
Terrified, I raised the window blind but so dense was the darkness that
nothing could be seen. I decided that sleep would be preferable to remaining
conscious of my imminent death. I next awoke to a gloriously crisp, sunny
day. For hours the train had passed, and for more hours would continue to
pass, through vast tracts of budding, glistening, uninhabited birch forest.
I had learnt something of the smallness of my island home - Gillian
John, Cardiff
At Moscow's Yaroslavksy station, awaiting departure for Ulan Bataar in
Mongolia, you really get the feeling you are heading into the unknown. In
our compartment was a Mongolian jeans trader who brought over 100 pairs onto
the train to sell on the way. At each station he would leap off, sell about
20, jump back on, thrust a pile of roubles in my hand and jump off again
with more. I became his accountant! It isn't the most scenic journey in the
world but I have more stories from those five days than in the rest of my
travels put together - Gareth Jones, London
My most memorable rail trip ever was in 1976, when I travelled with a friend
from the north-east of England to Foggia in southern Italy to teach English
as a foreign language. We left Newcastle-upon-Tyne early on a damp, foggy
September morning and as we travelled south through France and eventually
into Italy, felt like intrepid explorers edging our way into the unknown.
The sights, sounds and smells of that journey - which took us two days -
will live with me forever - Christine Baelz, Cumbria
Grimy Queen Street Station 5.15am - a dark 1958 morning. A 15-year-old boy on
his first big adventure alone. Sitting in a cold carriage of the 5.30
Mallaig train. Pulls out at six and sits two miles out for an hour waiting
for the northbound sleeper from London. Then – magic – two K2’s shovelling
smoke and steam into the watery dawn past the wakening Glasgow tenements and
shipyards. Whistlefield -Shandon- Garelochhead, then into Crainlarich; the
mountain Highlands; Fort William, the magic of Glenfinnan, the Isles of the
West unfolding before a virgin travellers eyes. The steel rail world awaits
- Robert Buntin, Renfrewshire
Interrailing with five girls around the Balkans last summer was eventful but
not more memorable than our encounter with Serbian border police. As the
only lad, fresh from school, I was forced off the train at 3am after my
friend Elizabeth produced a temporary passport, the real one having been
stolen in Sofia. She and I stood petrified as the border-guards telephoned
Belgrade, presumably to check the authenticity of the document, taking
breaks to shout at us in Serbian and wave their Klashnikovs about;
Klashnikovs they were perhaps not unused to firing - Oliver Smith, via
e-mail
My most memorable rail trip was the once a year trip by Rovos Rail from
Dar-es-Salaam to Cape Town. 13 days of five star luxury in a faithfully
restored Edwardian train travelling through Tanzania, Zambia, Zimbabwe and
South Africa. Superb and varied scenery, top class cuisine and comfort, and
an attentive yet unobtrusive crew. The personal touch was supplied by the
owner and his wife accompanying the tour and could be seen solving the many
problems that arise when travelling on single line track of uncertain
maintenance and only intermittent re-fuelling facilities. Magnificent
throughout is the only description - Jim Smith, Petersfield, Hampshire
My most memorable rail trip would have to be the Regionalle between Florence
and Rome. The scenery was magnificent and it gave us a great opportunity to
see the country and the people close up for the first time. In our
compartment was a man who got off at every station to make sure it wasn't
Rome, and an older woman who as we pulled out of every stop, wanted her bag
down off the rack to check everything was still there - Jonathon
Skinner, Cork
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