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From Times Online

March 28, 2007

Ask our expert: Latin America

In his first dispatch as the Times Online Latin America expert, Chris Parrott answers questions on Argentina, Peru, city breaks and safety in the region

Chris Parrott is Marketing Director of Journey Latin America

A typical Peruvian scene, taken by Cecilia Cran from Truro, Cornwall

Chris Parrott

Which is the best glacier to see in Argentina?

El Calafate in the far south of Patagonia is the starting point - fly from Buenos Aires. The obvious glacier is Ventisquero Perito Moreno, and these days there's a paved road all the way (an hour's drive) - the view point is a series of walkways in the hillside facing the 60m ice face and it seems almost close enough to touch.

In my view, a better option is book an all-day trip on one of the catamarans or hydrofoils (warm inside) which sail up Lago Argentino to the Upsala and Onelli glaciers. These are tongues of the Southern Patagonian icefield - and by the time you reach them, the ship is negoatiating a passage through icebergs as blue as my Windows login screen. The walk through the silent beech forest to Lake Onelli, with three glaciers coalescing beyond is an image you'll never lose.

Santiago or Cartagena?

Santiago has the barrio Bellavista - slightly bohemian feel, which is all the more unusual because bohemian isn't part of the Chilean psyche - lively restaurants and bars suit both the young crowd and the establishment. And on clear days between June and September you've got really stunning views of the snowcapped Andes - either from the higher floors of the hotels in Las Condes, or from one or other of the two sizable hills (both well over 2000ft) near the city town centre. Plenty of very good wine.

Cartagena is tropical, has beaches and sunshine - and hotels to cater for the trade they attract. The old walled (17m thick) city is fascinating, and romantic both from the springy seats of the horse-drawn caleches and of course for the history of pirates, dubloons and the Spanish main. If you like your hotels steeped in character, the Santa Clara, formerly a 17th century convent, in the walled city is the one for you.

I'd go for Santiago, but then I prefer temperate to tropical

Lima-Cusco direct or take the train?

If you're very short of time, there's no practical alternative to flying. Just allow at least two days in Cusco (3600m) to acclimatise, more if you're planning to walk one of the trails to Machu Picchu. Or go straight on to the Sacred Valley of the Incas or better still Machu Picchu, both of which are much much lower than Cusco.

With a bit more time, route by air via Arequipa, spend a couple of days there, and then fly on to Lake Titicaca and take the train to Cusco.

Overland from Lima to Cusco can be done by bus (48 hours over the high Andes), but not by train - the Central Railway to Huancayo intermittently promises to re-open, but doesn't - and anyway, the Chinese have now built a higher railway to Tibet, so the line has lost even that claim to highest fame. Even when the railway network was fully operational, you could never get all the way from Lima to Cusco - Michael Palin just made it look like that...

Ecuador to Peru - are there still only two routes?

Yes, just two, but by far the most used is Tumbes/Huaquillas (the coastal route). It's the one we use on our Tico Tico Escorted Journey, even though we're travelling south from Cuenca. Going north, it's striking to see how quickly the coastal scenery changes from desert scrub to tropical mangrove and low forest.

Quote from Claire Milner who did Macara a few years ago "Macara, the inland route is much longer, and a beautiful route - in some places the road is so high you are above the clouds. I arrived at the Ecuador border and asked, "where is the toilet please", and the guard brusquely replied, "in Peru." On the Ecuadorian side from Loja you can visit the pretty town of Vilcabamba - it used to be a back-packer hangout because of the presence of some dodgy cactuses, and reported extreme longevity of residents - the scenery around of rolling green hills is stunning".

People often get turned back at Macara if there is border tension. Although it's technically possible to go downstream in the Ecuadorian Amazon region and link up with upstream rivers into Peru, both sides are extremely jittery about anyone travelling in those regions. FCO still advises, eg, against all travel in Ecuador's Sucumbios/Orellana provinces (though jungle lodges at Sacha and La Selva are still OK)

Mugging and pickpocketing - is it widespread in Brazil?

Generally, thieves want to get away without having to confront you or someone else, so mugging usually happens in quiet side streets or back streets - avoid these if you're not familiar with the terrain. But if mugged, don't resist (same advice as for London).

Pickpocketing and bag snatching is more common - usually an accomplice distracts you (a dollop of grease on your clothes; someone asks you identify a coin; or to hold a balloon for moment), the thief makes off in the moment's hesitation. One trick I saw was two tourists sitting on a bench on Copacabana beach, near a tree full of birds. The thief innocently threw a handful of grain towards the feet of the tourists and in the sudden swoop of birds, made off with their bag. Tip: don't sit near trees full of birds.

Chris Parrott is director of Journey Latin America

There are three border crossings between Ecuador and PerÃº, not two.
You can cross at
*Tumbes / Huaquillas (rather unpleasant),
*have a slightly more interesting time at Macara, heading down from Loja, or
*you can go south from the legendary Vilcabamba to the border at La Balsa, and continue to see all the preIncan fortresses in Indiana Jones style cloudforest at Chachapoyas - a more independent traveller's best choice.

Vanessa, Chachapoyas, PerÃº

For Greg, Swansea. It is absolutly necessary to have a yellow fever jab before entering Brazil from Peru. If you are flying in, you will be asked to show the certificate at least twice before even getting on the plane. The airline will deny you boarding if you don`t have the certificate as they face steep fines.
For Diarmuid MacConchoil in Dublin - you are quite wrong about trains in Argentina. The network is limited, but if you pick your route right you can have a great time. There is, for example, a totally unknown railway line running across the pampa from San Carlos de Bariloche to the Atlantic coast at Viedma. Get a sleeping car and it is a cracking 15 hour ride, just made better by the steak and red wine in the dining car. For more train fun in Argentina, join holidaying Argentineans and take one of the summer trains from Constitucion station in Buenos Aires to Bahía Blanca - around 12 hours. Watch your kit and be sure to take along your mate and red wine.

Mike Brady, Lima, Peru,

My family - grandparents, parents, 2 children and uncle- booked a one week all inclusive stay at the holiday village, Costa Del Sol at a cost of nearly £5,000 for the Spring Bank Holiday week with First Choice. Our plane arrives at 8.40pm so by the time we wait for luggage, transfers etc., it will be quite late when we arrive at the hotel. We leave 7 days later at 21.40. We think it is very mean and petty that from 12 noon on the last day we will have to pay for any food or drinks consumed at the holiday village, we will only have breakfast on that day. We have had a lovely family holiday the last few years and really look forward to it, but are disappointed in this hotel before we get there this year. First Choice was unsympathetic.

Mrs. Pat Edhouse, Hemel Hempstead, Herts

Travelling to Tierra del Fuego.

It's perfectly practical to travel overland all the way to Rio Gallegos (the last town on the Argentine mainland) - but not by train. By bus it takes about 48 hours non-stop, but you'd probably want to break the journey eg in Puerto Madryn (Welsh Patagonia).
From Rio Gallegos, it's probably best to fly the last hop to Ushuaia, which overlooks the Beagle Channel. The last ten minutes of the flight are over the tail end of the Andes on Tierra del Fuego - everything you ever learned at school about glacial geomorphology is there below you.
If he's interested in trains, Rio Gallegos is the terminus of the (freight) railway to the coal mines at Rio Turbio - I think they still use steam engines.

Chris Parrott, London, UK

What about Mexico?
although is been said that Mexico city is Chaotic, rather dangerouse in some areas, I think is the best place to visit Latin America, could you please have a review of that wonderful country next time!

Regina, colchester, uk

Greg,
Caracas is unfortunately very dangerous not advisable to walk around , if I were heading to Venezuela I would go from Caracas to the Margarita Islands which is safer and very close. They have great hotels there so book now.
Lima is very safe especially Miraflores so feel free to walk around. Shame about the month though as it is winter there and overcast.

Regarding Cartagena, this is the most charismatic in Latin America and it is friendly and safe. The beach and party atmosphere along with the colonial architecture make it hard to beat. The girls are beautiful too!

Boris Nightingale, Maracaibo, Venezuela

For Jackie in Portsmouth
Never go on a train in Argentina unless it's either the Train of the Clouds or La Trochita in Esquel. And don't try and organise tours in Argentina. I tried and came unstuck big time. At least get advice from specialists like Journey Latin America or, even better, use Argentina based British travel experts like www.welshpatagonia.com They saved my bacon and gave me the trip of a lifetime. I saw places I am sure haven't been seen since Darwin was in Argentina! And boy is it cheaper getting them to arrange things once you are here rather than paying big international mark-ups before you come.

Diarmuid MacConchoil, Dublin, Ireland

Spot on Chris. The Patagonian glaciers are not to be missed. I recommend the boat trip past the Upsala and Spegnazzi glaclers too. I'm much more a fan of Cartagena than Santiago as I just don't like Chile, plus Cartagena is stunning. Colombia overall was a pleasant surprise but there is very little set up for backpackers. I spent two weeks in Chile, which was two weeks too long, whilst I could have been enjoying myself in Argentina. The Argentinians are much friendlier, and the prices are way cheaper. I vote for the flying in Peru, and in Argentina too. Sitting on a bus for two days is a waste of time considering the cost of flights if you risk it and book locally.

Finally I highly recommend Journey Latin America. They sorted out a series of flights for me, from Guatemala, via Costa Rica and Panama, to Bolivia, all organised from London and sent me the tickets via DHL to Guatemala. Great job and all done from a Guatemalan public phone box and a bunch of emails.

Ben, Palma, Spain

Hi, we have a holiday booked to Caraccas, Lima, Santiago, Rio and Sao Paolo in August. (Why this route ? Because those were the only flights that had airmiles seats available on the dates we required)

We can find a lot of info on the web, but there is not so much for Venezuala. We have planned 4 nights here, and as fortysomethings are looking for a relaxing, relatively quiet but interesting 5 days.

One other question - is it absolutely essential to have a yellow fever jab before entering Brazil from Venezuala, Peru and Chile ?

Any advice would be most appreciated.

Greg, Swansea, UK

My husband wants to visit Tierra del Fuego and Cape Horn. He dislikes tours and wants to arrange all travel himself. I don't know where to start! We want to fly to Buenos Aires and travel down by train, continuing on overland to Santiago in order to fly back to England. He is retiring early in June and we wish to do this trip within a year. We can take up to 4 weeks to complete the trip. A tall order I know but can you offer any advice?

Jackie Lederer, Portsmouth, U.K.