It's an impressive drive to Anglesey from the mainland, skirting the mountains of northwest Wales or via the A55 along the north coast.

Beaumaris, facing across the Menai Straits, benefits from views towards the ominous peaks of Snowdonia that seem to plunge straight into the sea.

The Bulls Head is one street back from the town's windswept seafront and a stone's throw from its dramatic moated castle.

There's a small car park at the rear, through a medieval arched gateway that used to welcome the horse-drawn carriage to this former coaching house. The inn dates back to 1471 and was a famous staging post en route to Ireland.

Tyddyn Llan, Denbighshire, Wales

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Background

• New White Lion, Llandovery, Wales

• Tipi West, Blaenannerch, Cardigan

• Manorhaus, Ruthin, Denbighshire

The Quay, Deganwy, Conwy

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• Synchant Pass House, Snowdonia, Conwy

Related Internet Links

• More reviews in our Hotel in Wales section

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• Tyddyn Llan, Denbighshire, Wales

The hotel's prominence on the way to the Emerald Isle meant that it saw its fair share of famous guests, including Dr Samuel Johnson and Charles Dickens. The rooms are named after Dickens characters. We stayed in Mr Stiggins, recently refurbished with a bathroom nearly as large as the sizable bedroom. His and her sinks, a walk in shower and a huge free-standing bath crown it all off.

It being an old, if modernised, affair, meant that there was no air conditioning, and a quick call to the extremely helpful reception staff led to instructions on using the mammoth metal radiator. The room was far too hot on arrival, but an old fashioned knob and opening windows was adequate temperature control. The bed was comfortable enough, but the bathroom was the undoubted highlight.

We were disappointed to find that during our visit, on a Sunday, the gourmet Loft restaurant was closed. The bigger, brighter and substantially cheaper Grill brasserie benefited from its loftier sister's reasonable wine list, but, despite it seeming to be a hit with the locals, we found the food disappointing - my steak, by far the most expensive thing on the menu, was bland.

Judging by the breakast in the Loft the restaurant should be far better. My kippers were excellent and the full English non-greasy - and they served the best freshly squeezed orange juice I've had in Wales.

Downstairs, the bar is luxurious but historic, a Victorian pub-styled affair with a roaring fire, ancient wooden beams and antique furniture. The paintings and curiosities hanging around the walls increased the sense of history - add to that the authentically creaky stairs up to the rooms and you really do feel like you are stepping into a Dickens novel.

Online: Reviews on tripadvisor.co.uk good, the average rating is 3.5 stars. The food is marked lowest at 3.5, though not many of the reviewers tried the Loft restaurant

Bottom line: Doubles B&B from £100, General Mytton Suite £150

Best thing: The Mr Stiggins bathroom

Worst thing: Brasserie disappoints

Access all areas: None, all rooms upstairs

Need to know: Ye Olde Bulls Head Inn, Castle street, Beaumaris, Anglesey, LL58 8AP. Telephone 01248 810329; www.bullsheadinn.co.uk

Food: 7 out of 10

Service: 9 out of 10

Room: 9 out of 10

Value: 8 out of 10

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