British seaside hotels come in for a lot of stick – outdated decor, second-rate food, service that lurches from the comical to the criminal – so it’s a rare guest who steps into one of these venerable establishments without some trepidation.

If we were hoping for reassurance on arrival at St Bride’s Hotel, however, it is in short supply. A path from an unfinished car park leads through automatic doors into an anonymous reception, where, to my alarm, I hear Bob Dylan’s latest in the background.

Now the Bard of Minnesota has his place – Duluth, Minnesota, an unkind critic might say – but as a musical emissary for an upmarket hotel? A man who has sung: “Well, I woke up in the morning, there’s frogs inside my socks”?

Fortunately, events quickly take a turn for the better, with a charming staff member showing us to room 115. Any lingering doubts about St Bride’s claims to be a “contemporary destination spa hotel” immediately disappear.

Tyddyn Llan, Denbighshire, Wales

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Background

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• Manorhaus, Ruthin, Denbighshire

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The room is delightful, with polished timber floors, ultra-modern bathroom, flat-screen television, limited-edition prints on the walls and subtle nautical references – anchor motifs and miniature starfish – that are amusing, not overwhelming.

Step outside on to a private balcony, and the hotel’s prize asset is revealed: delightful views across serene Carmarthen Bay to farmland and the winding coastline beyond.

St Bride’s is a 1960s hotel that has been refurbished with 35 individually styled rooms. The downstairs Gallery Bar is a wonderful space, with oak floors, muted tones, and deep leather sofas, but we decided to relax on the outside deck, watching fishermen returning with their catch to the tiny harbour.

The hotel’s restaurant serves an excellent choice of contemporary fare with local seafood featuring strongly. My partner’s sea bream stuffed with fennel and shallots on a bed of greens (£17.50) was excellent and a beef fillet with parsley mash (£22.50) kept me happy.

Opening our french windows the next morning delivered a sight that will live long in the memory: bright autumn sunshine, the still waters of the bay, and a small fleet of sailing boats setting off for a day’s racing. Breakfast continued the standard of the previous evening, with excellent coffee, pastries, a range of breads, fresh fruit and choice of eggs.

St Bride’s Marine Spa offers a range of treatments, and its vitality pool overlooking the bay certainly looked inviting. I couldn’t resist one final drink on the deck, however: a contemplative beer in the noonday sunshine that proved to be just as rejuvenating.

After all, it was St Bride, the 6th-century Irish saint who wrote: “I long for a great lake of ale; I long for the meats of belief and piety.” Now that’s something I can imagine the free-wheelin’ Bob Dylan singing.

Bottom line: Les Webb paid £260 for a B&B double.
Sampling the fare: Three-course dinner for two was £74. Wine was £16.
Best thing: Bay views.
Worst thing: The drive home.
Access all areas: Wheelchair-friendly rooms and ramps throughout.

Need to know:
St Bride’s Spa Hotel, Saundersfoot, Pembrokeshire, Wales SA69 9NH
01834 812304
www.stbridesspahotel.com

Room: 9 out of 10.
Food: 8 out of 10.
Service: 8 out of 10.
Value: 9 out of 10.

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