The Welsh aren’t exactly renowned for their five-star hotels. In fact, until recently there was just one recognised by the tourist board: the Castell Deudraeth at Portmeirion in North Wales. Now there are two, as the Quay has just been awarded the top accolade.

A one-carriage train took me from Llandudno on the north Wales coast past fields of delicious spring lamb to the village of Deganwy. On arrival, I face a rather bland, wuppie (Welsh upwardly mobile) housing estate jammed with four-wheel drives full of golf clubs and riding tack. Inside this, by the new marina, is The Quay.

The outlook is perfect. Across the water is Conwy, with its spectacular castle on the left and the Conwy marina on the right. Nearby mountains act as a backdrop.

Entering the hotel, I am greeted by a vast hall of polished stone and staff jumping to attention. I have been upgraded and am grateful that a balcony and chairs allows me to enjoy the view. The room is big and comfortable – big bed, big bathroom – and the flatscreen is one of those flash multimedia systems with 5,000 tracks, dozens of films and a keyboard for free internet.

Tyddyn Llan, Denbighshire, Wales

A glorious Georgian country pile in the luscious Vale of Edeyrnion, North Wales

Background

• New White Lion, Llandovery, Wales

• Tipi West, Blaenannerch, Cardigan

• Manorhaus, Ruthin, Denbighshire

The Quay, Deganwy, Conwy

Kieran Falconer says the va-va-voom is missing at Wales' second ever hotel to get a five-star rating

• Synchant Pass House, Snowdonia, Conwy

Related Internet Links

• More reviews in our Hotel in Wales section

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• Synchant Pass House, Snowdonia, Conwy

Downstairs, I enter a bar off the lobby whose decor is in need of some fireworks. A sort of beigeness hangs over the hotel, despite clientele that includes the Cheshire set, Man U footballers, Jools Holland and the mighty Status Quo. No doubt Wags take advantage of the Elemis spa’s yummy-mummy treatments and heated slab of marble for massages.

Upstairs, the restaurant has an Art Deco feel, with a baby grand tinkling on weekends and, again, that view in the dining room.

It is rare to find a menu on which I want to eat everything – three courses for about £30. Rosemary and parmesan bread was tasty as was the amuse bouche of scallop (perfectly done) with a citrus dressing. A chicken terrine followed that didn’t create any sparks, but the trio of Welsh lamb with creamed cabbage was good, if a tad overdone.

A half-bottle of Château-neuf-du-Pape, Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe 1999 (£23) was a spicy, warm contrast to the lamb and the finale of Welsh cheeses, including the fabulous creamy blue Perl Las. (If you’re very brave, you can try the Welsh wine.)

I liked The Quay – it is comfortable, the service and food are fine, and you can star-spot fellow guests. The only thing lacking is a bit of oomph.

Bottom line: Kieran Falconer paid £105 for a single. Doubles from £175. Breakfast £11-£13.
Sampling the fare: Decent food, attentive waiting.
What we think: A cut above anything on the coast.
Worst thing: A bit anonymous.
Need to know: The Quay (01492 564 100, www.quayhotel.com), Deganwy, Conwy, North Wales LL31 9DJ.
Access all areas: Yes, 20 wheelchair-accessible rooms.
Room: 8 out of 10.
Food: 7 out of 10.
Service: 8 out of 10.

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