I am so used to sincerely phoney welcomes in hotels that it came as a jolt when the door to Manorhaus opened and I received a distinctly cool reception. Christopher Frost, the co-owner, looked far from pleased to see me. There was none of the commiseration about the Welsh weather (and there was plenty to commiserate about), none of the “how was your journey?” and no offer of tea.

This wasn’t a good start, but thankfully the charm curve rose steeply in the next 24 hours. Ruthin is a lovely town of half-timbered buildings and a large jail (now an excellent museum) hinting at a naughty past. Manorhaus, a listed Georgian house with eight rooms, sits just off the main square. My room was dominated by a kingsize bed with goose and duck feather duvet and pillows and had a small wetroom (shower only).

Each room is individually decorated with contemporary art that changes every year. Mine had a Turner-esque exhibition of oils by Helen Job, with several clouds of colour entitled Unseen Venetians. Little let-downs included too much MDF, scuffing and a Yale lock more suited to a Blackpool B&B.

The owners have been thoughtful in providing extras. There is a library full of DVDs, CDs, magazines, books and games as well as a sauna and steam room; there are plans to fit a cinema and small gym. Overall, the style is comforting: purples, ivory, browns and cherry. Pictures of butterflies are displayed in the dining room, and service had a similarly light touch.

Frosty was all smiles by evening. Beetroot, goats’ cheese and shallot salad with raspberry vinaigrette was delicious, by turns chewy, earthy and sharp. Then it was on to a veal steak on a bed of cabbage with subtle, bacony croquettes, complemented by a fine Meursault 2000 (£18 a half bottle).

After breakfast the following morning (eggs benedict, full Welsh, posh muesli and Classic FM) I asked Gavin Harris, co-owner and former architect, whether Manorhaus was a Welsh spelling. In fact, it turns out to be named after the 1920s German Bauhaus movement.

Bottom line: Kieran Falconer paid £60 (single occupancy) B&B. Doubles from £85.

Sampling the fare: For those staying, an additional £15pp is added for a three-course dinner.

What we think: Nice rooms, good food, nice cellar and plenty of style. Terrific value.

Worst thing: They need to be more engaging, jollier and relaxed with guests.

Need to know: Manorhaus (01824 704830, www.manorhaus.com), Well Street, Ruthin, Denbighshire, Wales.

Access all areas: No wheelchair access to the rooms, only the dining room (one step) and there is no disabled WC.

Room: 6 out of 10.

Food: 7 out of 10.

Service: 7 out of 10.

Value: 8 out of 10.

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