The hotel: Don’t tell me — on a harbour? You guessed it. At the end of a row of colourful Georgian houses on Cardigan Bay, the hotel was built as a harbourmaster’s house. Great views were a requirement for his work — now they add to the hotel’s gentle appeal. All seven rooms (named after locally built ships) overlook the harbour, the coastline, or both.

When Glyn and Menna Heulyn opened the hotel last year, they brought it out of its mock-Tudor-beams-and-sticky-carpet mummification. Now the place is lovely — all tasteful, light decor complemented by ori- ginal features such as the listed spiral staircase and the Welsh slate masonry.

Soundproofing wasn’t one of the original features, so if you plan to head for your supremely comfortable bed before the bar shuts, go for a room on one of the higher floors. Splash out on Madona, the suite at the top of the house, with the best panoramic views and the best bathroom (freestanding roll-top bath and fantastically powerful shower). If you’re taking kids, go for one of a large double with adjoining single. Each room is individually designed, with subtle Welsh touches: slate placemats, Ty Nant mineral water and locally made aromatherapy soap. All have split shutters rather than curtains — which means you can keep that fishingboat-bobbing sea in clear sight and still preserve your modesty.

Downstairs, in the panelled, pine-and-leather bar and restaurant area, the friendly staff and garrulous locals keep the atmosphere convivial. In keeping with the hotel, the excellent food is modern but substantial, with more than a few nods to national pride. Ingredients are sourced locally whenever possible — so expect lots of seafood, Welsh black beef and lamb, organic vegetables and Cerwyn goats’ cheese, as well as laver bread with the full Welsh breakfast.

What’s the village like? To begin at the beginning: Aberaeron and its harbour were planned and built in the early 19th century by the Rev Alban Gwynne. As such, it has a pleasingly uniform prettiness, especially when sunset’s doing its thing with the multicoloured houses. In a less familiar part of Wales, it’s a fairly sleepy place: there are a few pubs and tea shops, but some (particularly the Black Lion) are definitely local boozers for local people.

A few yards from the hotel is Aberaeron Craft Centre, a collection of farm buildings that have been converted into workshops. If this gives you a taste for local arts and crafts, go and throw a pot or two at the Crochendy Llanarth Pottery (01545 580584) three miles south of Aberaeron. Less hands-on is the Rhiannon Gold workshop, half an hour away in Tregaron (01974 298415), where craftsmen create Celtic designs in Welsh gold.

We fancy stretching our legs. No problem — Aberaeron makes a good base for walks. North and south you have the picturesque Ceredigion coastal path; or follow the River Aeron three miles up the valley to Llanerchaeron. The 18th-century house, designed by John Nash, has a large estate that’s perfect for a wander (01545 570200; free), but the house and gardens are closed for winter. On Dec-ember 7, there’s a Christmas Food and Craft Fair.

So is there a Dylan Thomas connection? This is his neck of the (hunched, courters’-and- rabbits’) woods. Nearby New Quay contests Laugharne’s claim to be the model for Llareggub. Pick up a leaflet from the tourist office next to the Harbourmaster if you want to follow the Dylan Thomas Trail. It recommends a couple of pubs for lunch, as well as a visit to the public toilets (once the lifeboat station, apparently). The wide, sandy beach here is popular in the summer, but for something smaller and more dramatic for a winter stroll, head a few miles southwest to Llangranog and Tresaith.

Who should go? Anyone who knows there’s more to Wales than valleys and mountains.

Who shouldn’t? Anyone who presents The Weakest Link.

Harbourmaster Hotel, Pen Cei, Aberaeron, Ceredigion (01545 570755, www.harbour-master.com). Singles from £45, doubles from £75, Madona suite £90 (minimum two-night stay), all B&B

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