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A warning: in no circumstances stay at Dorian House if you are in any way
irritated by classical music. The co-owner Tim Hugh is principal cellist
with the London Symphony Orchestra, and this upmarket Bath B&B is a
four-storey monument to his day job.
Tim Hugh recordings, available for purchase, play in the breakfast room. Each
of the 11 bedrooms is named after a composer or musician (ours was Grieg),
and you will find a spectacularly sickly chocolate bearing a picture of
Mozart on your pillow on arrival.
As themes go, it is hardly the subtlest. But forgive him his obsessions, for
as well as being an excellent cellist Hugh runs a top-class establishment.
Dorian House is a homely Victorian mansion ten minutes’ walk from the centre
of Bath.
Our room was tastefully decorated, with heavy wooden furniture, an enormous
bed and a gratifyingly deep bathtub in a sparkling bathroom. We were on the
top floor, and the ceiling on one side of our room was so low that I had to
roll my inelegant way across the bed before standing, but this was
infinitely preferable to some characterless box-shaped bedroom in a more
modern setting.
Some of the more expensive rooms have oak four-posters and presumably higher
walls, but for less than £100 a night you can’t have everything. Breakfast
was excellent. With such an extensive self-service buffet to gorge on first,
including fruit, yoghurt, cereal, mini-pastries and cheese, I would have
liked slightly longer before being asked make my selection from the hot
menu.
My gluttony is hardly their problem, but if breakfast lasted longer than an
hour (8.30am- 9.30am), the waitresses might have been able to take things a
little easier. They probably saved me from myself, however, because the hot
food was delicious, with eggs Benedict and smoked salmon and scrambled eggs
to choose from as well as the ubiquitous full English. You’ll have to take
the boyfriend’s word for it, but the black pudding is apparently
exceptional.
A number of thoughtful touches make Dorian House an excellent discovery. There
is an elegant living room for guests’ use, complete with restaurant menus
and visitor guides, and an open fireplace that must be glorious in winter. A
therapist can be booked to provide aromatherapy massages in your room. There
is plenty of space for parking, and although checkout is by 10.30am, they
are happy to store luggage while you spend the day exploring the town.
Bottom line: Fran Yeoman paid £95 a night for a double room,
including breakfast.
What we think: A great base for a weekend away.
Best thing: Breakfast.
Worst thing: Having to be downstairs by 9.30am on a Sunday to
eat it.
Need to know: Dorian House (01225 426336, www.dorianhouse.co.uk),
1 Upper Oldfield Park, Bath BA2.
Access all areas: No — lots of steps, inside and out.
Food: 8 out of 10.
Room: 8 out of 10
Service: 7 out of 10.
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