Amid the hugger-mugger fishermen’s cottages and 1970s bungalows, a more imposing edifice rises above high-stepping Rock. Sir John Betjeman, who lies buried on the other side of St Enodoc golf course, would have recognised its appeal. He knew the holidaymaker from the metropolis desires something more than the ubiquitous Cornish B&B.

St Enodoc Hotel provides that. It offers an alternative across the water from Rick Stein’s tentacle-like hold on this stretch of north Cornwall. And it succeeds: this sizeable seaside building refurbished by Emily Todhunter provides a suitably aqueous backdrop.

There are windows resembling portholes, views of the Camel Estuary and Padstow, and nautical stripes abound. A small gym — probably underused given the outdoor attractions — a sauna and a playroom have been installed.

The hotel, which has designer touches and attracts a racy London clientele, is set back from the waterfront in Rock and hence no one is disturbed by revellers — royal or otherwise — at the Mariners pub. The solicitous staff give the appearance of having been bussed in from Mayfair.

There are 20 rooms including four family suites. The remainder are a mix of twin and double rooms, and pillows, thankfully, are not of the rubbery kind. There is no lift, which might deter Granny from joining a bucket-and-spade trip, and dog owners who pitch up in the autumn are deterred by having to keep their pets in the car.

Any expectation of Mayfair standards will be met by Mayfair prices on the menu. There is less fish than will be found in Padstow restaurants, although the chef is keen on making full use of the plentiful mackerel, and duck confit is another favourite. Wines are not overpriced. Faultless breakfast is served by a particularly pleasant waitress. The local rag is not buried under the national newspapers and Tatler.

Prince Harry and pals were not gallivanting about on my visit, but I expect the Windsor set will be back in the summer.

Sampling the fare: three- course dinner about £45 a head including wine.

Bottom line: B&B doubles from £100.

Access all areas: wheelchair access to all public areas, but not to rooms.

Need to know: St Enodoc (01208 863394, www.enodoc-hotel.co.uk), Rock, Cornwall.

Room: 8 out of 10.

Food: 9 out of 10.

Service: 8 out of 10.

Spot-a-royal factor: 10 out of 10 (in summer).

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