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FOR £140 I recently booked a suite with a hot tub, leather-topped desk, giant bed, satellite TV, a trouser press, a kettle with tea, coffee and “Rich Shorties” biscuits, free wireless internet access, some frankly chintzy curtains (pink rose motif)... and one of the best views in Britain.
From Room 124 of the Avon Gorge Hotel I could see the swooping outline of the Clifton Suspension Bridge.
There it was, in all its glory: the thin wrought-iron cables hanging from the sturdy A-shaped bases, designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel to take the weight of horse-drawn carriages - yet still so strong that as many as 12,000 vehicles now cross the towering structure each day.
Work on the bridge began in 1831, but it was not completed until 1864 for technical and local reasons - including a riot involving anti-bridge protesters. By then, Brunel had died from a stroke at the age of 53.
Looking directly out of my window (past a small air-conditioning unit), I could see the dramatic gorge tumbling down to the narrow muddy streak of the River Avon. On a terrace, drinkers were enjoying a sunny April day. There were bursts of laughter. Glasses clinked. Corks popped. To my left, the gorge spread out into the centre of Bristol and green distant hills.
What a nice spot, I thought.
The Avon Gorge Hotel, opened in 1898, is on the edge of Clifton, the hilly neighbourhood of beautiful Georgian houses overlooking Bristol. It was once a spa hotel; there is a hot spring at the base of the gorge. But the spring has long been disused, and now the hotel draws guests coming for the great views of Brunel's bridge.
I could have paid £115 for a standard double, but the “Queen Suite with a bridge view” was there for £140. Given that I've shelled out half that for a dull Travelodge recently, I thought this was pretty good value. It was also refreshing to stay somewhere that's not copycat design conscious, unlike so many other places I've been of late.
Anyway, I liked my chintzy curtains. Who needs fancy design when you have such a wonderful location?
After an enjoyable walk to Brunel's SS Great Britain, moored on the Avon, passing crowds walking along the docks to the Arnolfini arts centre, and wandering up Whiteladies Road to the wide-open Downs leading back to the hotel, I joined a local friend for lunch.
“I can't believe I haven't eaten here before,” she said. “She” is a Bristol mover and shaker who hadn't heard that the restaurant at the hotel had been quietly and stylishly revamped last year with a strong menu: her free-range duck breast and my corn-fed chicken were both excellent.
It seems likely that the rooms will soon be renovated, too: Alias, a trendy hotel group, bought the property last year. Until then, enjoy the chintz (and the low prices). I did.
Bottom line: Mystery Guest paid £140 for a suite; B&B doubles frmo £115
Sampling the fare: £67 for two for two courses and two glasses of wine
Best thing: The view
Worst thing: Tatty room furnishings
Need to know: Avon Gorge Hotel (0117 973 8955, www.theavongorgehotel.com), BS8 4LD
Room: 9 out of 10
Food: 7 out of 10
Service: 5.5 out of 10
Value: 9 out of 10
Score: 7.63 out of 10
PUT TO THE TEST: 20 Mystery Guest questions for... Avon Gorge Hotel, Bristol
1. Do rooms have kettles/coffee makers? And is there fresh milk?
Yes, kettles. But no fresh milk.
2. Is there a hairdryer, and is it fixed to a wall?
Hand-held hairdryers.
3. Are coathangers metal, wooden, removable?
Wooden, removeable.
4. Complimentary bottle of water?
No.
5. Sheets and blankets or duvets?
Duvets.
6. What about a 'pillow menu'?
No.
7. Is lighting good enough for reading?
Yes.
8. Is there a shaving/make up mirror? And is it well lit?
No shaving/make-up mirror.
9. What about the in-room entertainment system?
Just a TV and a radio.
10. Is there a temperature control panel?
No.
11. Do the windows open?
Partially.
12. Is there good sound-proofing?
Yes.
13. Is there wi-fi internet access?
Only in public areas.
14. Is there a good place to go jogging nearby?
Yes, the Downs are good for jogging.
15. What is the vegetarian food selection like?
Reasonable.
16. Is there baby listening/babysitting? And are children welcome at adults' evening meals?
No baby-listening or babysitting, but children are welcome.
17. Is there wheelchair access to all areas?
To some rooms and most public areas.
18. Do you get a free paper in the morning?
No.
19. Is there a pub round the corner?
Many... try the Coronation Tap for its great selection of cider.
20. Is there free car parking? And is it secure?
Yes, unsecured free parking.
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