You can’t beat a Falmouth oyster. They are harvested using traditional sail boats – by law no mechanical power is allowed – and only the finest are kept for market. Unlike the common Pacific variety, these Cornish molluscs take time to mature, growing plumper than others, offering a sweeter taste – a gastrocosm of the sea.

Replete with these sea-grown delights, I leave the Harbour Square in Falmouth, host to the town’s Oyster Festival and the National Maritime Museum, and make my way up the hill to St Michael’s Hotel and Spa.

St Michael’s is a recent edition to Falmouth’s hotels, bought in 2001 by Nigel and Julie Carpenter and substantially refurbished. Like the oysters down here, the hotel has a singular flavour, capturing the saltiness of its marine setting.

The main entrance is beneath a sail-like awning, displaying the hotel’s name and lending a dynamic air to the facade. Inside, the nautical theme continues with walls in Cornish-blue and cream, one displaying a life-size image of a classic yacht ploughing the waves. The reception desk is a mock clinker board rowboat, fun and bright enough to be this side of naff. The girls wear the blue and white striped tops of yesteryear’s jacks.

From my room I could see a yacht tacking back and forth across Gyllyngvase Bay and sunlight spilled through the generous windows. One of these had been left ajar and I could hear the waves crashing on the beach at the bottom of the hill – so often hotel rooms are stuffy and lifeless.

The rooms are simply done, with walls freshly painted in coastal colours, uncomplicated furniture, a large double bed, good pillows, thick, cream curtains. Everything was clean and new and a bowl of fresh fruit had been left on the table.

The bathroom was similarly satisfactory, with a mirror that spanned the width of the room, two sinks and a large, deep clean white bath. I was disappointed with the shower, which looked as if it would pummel the shoulders but failed to deliver.

For breakfast at St Michael’s, one could be satisfied simply by drinking in the view. Floor to ceiling windows in the dining room offer a sweeping seascape across four acres of sub-tropical south-facing gardens to the sandy bay.

More nutritious sustenance is to hand. Cooked food – fried eggs, bacon, potatoes, mushrooms - is in covered hot plates, a set up that can result in tepid food. Cereals, muesli, fruit salads and juices are to one side. Haddock, smoked salmon and scrambled eggs have to be ordered, as do coffee and toast. The only thing in short supply here is time - last orders is at 9.30am.

If the views don’t relax you, the hotel’s spa will. There’s a swimming pool, steam room, sauna and gym and four treatment rooms. Therapists use locally sourced organic products and takes a holistic non-invasive approach to treatments – like the oyster fisherman, no machinery is allowed.

St Michael’s may not have minibars or internet access in the bedrooms and the mobile phone reception is appalling but, like a Falmouth oyster, time and effort has gone into this seaside gem, indeed for a short relaxing break and a breath of Cornish sea air, the hotel is something of a pearl.

Reviews on tripadvisor.co.uk are enthusiastic. The hotel has an average rating of 3.5/5, and most people praised it for a short stay.

Bottom line: double rooms cost from £64 - £97 per person per night including breakfast.

Best thing: the views and the smiling young staff

Worst thing: last breakfast at 9.30am

Access all areas: There is a specially built room for wheelchair users

Need to know: St Michael’s Hotel and Spa, Gyllngvase Beach, Falmouth, Cornwall, TR11 4NB; tel. 01326 312707;info@stmichaelshotel.co.uk

Food: 8 out of 10

Service: 9 out of 10

Room: 9 out of 10

Value: 9 out of 10

Click here for more reviews of hotels and B&Bs in Cornwall and the South West

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