First impressions: aristo elegance: this is a fine Regency country house designed by an Italian architect and set at the top of a winding, wooded driveway. The meticulously painted hallway opens on to a broad circular staircase flanked by statues.

Why it’s special: high windows give wow-gosh vistas over the Quantocks and the Blackdown Hills. And, yes, that is a peacock pecking the croquet lawn.

Hitting the sack: five of the 11 bedrooms are suites, where the decoration and furnishings range from restrained to camp, via sumptuous. The whirlpool bath in our room could fit a rugby team.

Sampling the fare: filling local specialties include Quantock chicken, Exmoor lamb, Somerset cheeses, Brixham lobster and home-baked breads, all with clever twists.

Access all areas: not with that huge staircase.

Added attractions: easy afternoon drives take you to the Medieval marvel of Wells cathedral and the New Age karmic overkill known as Glastonbury. Or head north to coast towns such as Watchet, and south to Sidmouth.

Star quality: celeb chefs Gary Rhodes and Phil Vickery were trained at the hotel.

The bottom line: bed and breakfast in a “classic” room costs £135, rising to £245 for B&B and dinner in the best suite.

Need to know: Mount Somerset Hotel, Henlade, Taunton, Somerset (01823 442500, www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk ).

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