Mary Gold
We've made some changes
to The Sunday Times
AN American woman in the bar asked how old the Castle Inn was and was astonished to find that it had been built in the 13th century. “Oh my gaaaaad!” she squawked, “it’s even older than America!” Quite a bit older, actually, and that’s only one of its assets.
The inn is a very pretty building in one of Britain’s prettiest villages. It stands, all honeyed stone and creeper-clad walls, at one end of Castle Combe, the exuberant hanging baskets fluttering in the breeze. Inside, we were greeted by a smiling young woman who turns out to be Lisa Bullock, the small but dynamic co-owner.
Lisa and her husband Charles have been here for two months but already they have left their mark, filling the inn with antiques. We stopped for five minutes to admire a fine pair of duelling pistols in a glass display case and in a trice our bags had gone off to the room (no 4).
We followed to find a delightful billet, with a four-poster richly draped in red and gold. There was a large bathroom, with corner spa bath, fluffy robes and toiletries from the White Company. There was also a powerful hairdryer, good books by the bed and a small decanter of sherry.
After we had polished that off it was time for dinner in the mint-green restaurant. The menu was imaginative, but with proper English favourites, and the wine list was extensive and reasonably priced. My rib-eye steak with pepper sauce, and my husband’s calves liver and pancetta were brought promptly by a smiling South African waiter. Both were very good, and we followed up with an excellent moulded fruit mousse.
We had a good night’s sleep under a lovely fluffy blanket. The inventors of the blanket, as it happens, were the Blanket brothers, who lived here when this was a wool-trade village.
Breakfast was worthy of Miss Piggy — kippers, the full Monty, or healthy options, although no one seemed to be eating muesli. Food, rooms, service, setting — the Castle Inn ticks all the boxes. Certain top-notch hotel guides have it in their sights so I suggest you get in quick.
Bottom line: Mary Gold paid £165 for a B&B four-poster room. Dinner for two with wine was £45.
Need to know: The Castle Inn, Castle Combe, Wiltshire SN14 7HN (01249 783030, www.castle-inn.info ).
Access all areas: Bar and restaurant yes; bedrooms no.
Room: 10 out of 10.
Food: 9 out of 10.
Service: 10 out of 10.
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