The secluded lanes and beaches near Soar Mill in this delightful part of Devon are a never-ending source of hidden treasure, as Enid Blyton knew only too well. So it wasn’t exactly a surprise when our two young sons announced that they had found a “secret room”.

Their explorations had merely taken them to the outdoor games room, where, under a warning announcing that children must be accompanied by an adult, sat a snooker table with only one cue. Hmm, two boys, one cue: a recipe for a pool-hall fracas. Having supervised the peaceful passing of the cue for a good half an hour, I returned to our room to relax while the boys checked out the indoor pool.

Our superior family room was well furnished, if somewhat chintzy, with a comfortable double and two single beds, plus an en suite bathroom with a stack of fluffy white towels and tasteful toiletries. Two recessed wardrobes and a chest of drawers provided plenty of space. But the generosity didn’t extend to the tiny wall-mounted TV and basic CD player. Annoyingly, the sound of conversation could be heard from the next room.

The hotel’s main selling point was evident when we drew the curtains. Through french doors, views of rolling countryside extended down to the sea and the tiny cove that gives the hotel its name.

The 80ha of National Trust land surrounding the hotel offers plenty of opportunity to work up an appetite. Dinner in the Serendipity restaurant failed to match our expectations, however, especially since this four-star hotel makes great claims on its website and in the awards and publicity material scattered around the premises.

Our soups were heavy and lacked flavour. A main course of mussels was adequate, while my beef fillet was overcooked and dry. Side dishes of vegetables had been heavily steamed and came saturated in what seemed to be a mild cheese sauce. And one son had the unhappy experience of biting into a chip to find that it was frozen in the middle — both servings of fish and chips were sent back to the kitchen, and, presumably, the microwave. Service, however, was excellent, and the staff pleasant and efficient.

Breakfast, again, was a desultory affair with a choice of packaged cereals, yoghurts, toast and pastries. My request for poached eggs resulted in one overcooked egg appearing on a small piece of processed toast.

For walkers or summer holidaymakers, Soar Mill offers a cosy, if expensive, option. But those looking for four-star luxury with cooking to match may well be disappointed.

Bottom line: Les Webb paid £250 for a superior family room, including dinner and breakfast.

Need to know: Soar Mill Cove Hotel, Salcombe, Devon (01548 561566, www.soarmillcove.co.uk).

Access all areas: Disabled entrance. Rooms can be adapted for use.

Best thing: The views.

Worst thing: The food.

Room: 7 out of 10.

Food: 4 out of 10.

Service: 8 out of 10.

Value: 7 out of 10.

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