I am a fan of the boutique Hotel du Vin group, having enjoyed breaks at its Harrogate, Henley and Winchester outposts. This time I’m under cover at their Bristol venture, which opened in 1999 in an 18th-century former sugar warehouse. Is it still sweet?

It’s a charming building, fronted by a pretty courtyard, but on a city-centre dual carriageway, surrounded by monster Sixties office blocks, and with limited parking.

A helpful receptionist whisks my bag up to my loft suite, the only room remaining when I booked a month ahead. It’s spacious, with a vast, comfortable bed, squashy leather armchairs, a big wardrobe (with iron, board and horrid built-in hangers) and a desk. The bath and enormous walk-in shower have the wow factor up on the mezzanine level in this double-height room.

Someone has thought about this room. A glass-topped table by the bath offers somewhere to put your drink while you bathe. Sockets are at desk height so you don’t have to scrabble on the floor to plug in your laptop. But I suspect the “someone” was a man, as there is no magnifying make-up mirror, and the basins are so large it’s awkward to stretch across to peer into the mirror. For £270 I’d expect cotton wool, cotton buds and hair conditioner — none are provided — and the towels are no longer fluffy, or even that white. The dressing gown is rough as cardboard. There’s a lightbulb out in the bathroom. Meanwhile, the huge, old-fashioned TV has fuzzy reception and it would be great to see a docking device for my iPod. Perhaps it’s time for a refurb?

Downstairs for supper with my friend Sally, and the bar’s heaving. Some gents have to stand while their wives take the sofas — yet upstairs there’s a deserted snooker room and lounge. Could that become a second bar to help to ease the crush?

Dinner, in the busy brasserie, was a hit. My seabass with puy lentils and kale was delicious, as was Sally’s lemon sole with a side dish of puréed celeriac and onion. But the sommelier was rushed off his feet, so the wine came after our starters. It seems odd that, in a hotel devoted to wine, the waiters refused to take our wine order.

In the morning, the restaurant again proved its worth, with perfectly boiled eggs and a waiter who kept the hot toast coming. The hotel has much to recommend it — but I think it’s in danger of trading on its reputation. A few tweaks wouldn’t go amiss.

Bottom line: Cath Urquhart paid £270 for the loft suite (including VAT) and £13.50 for breakfast. Rooms from £135.

Need to know: Hotel du Vin (0117-925 5577, www.hotelduvin.com), The Sugar House, Narrow Lewins Mead, Bristol BS1.

Sampling the fare: Three-course dinner for two with wine, £95.

Access all areas: Yes.

Best thing: Delicious food.

Worst thing: Bathroom needs rethinking.

Room: 6 out of 10.

Food: 8 out of 10.

Service: 7 out of 10.

Value: 7 out of 10.

Have you stayed at the Hotel du Vin? Do you agree or disagree with our review?

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