First impressions

The Forbury is a 24-bedroom town house hotel that opened in Reading town centre in early March. The hotel is stylish and fun, but the obvious question is, why Reading? Town house brands like Malmaison and Hotel du Vin have skirted the city in favour of more erudite addresses like Oxford and Winchester, but I don’t see the Forbury’s postcode holding it back. With a good restaurant, chic décor and management that’s come from Le Manoir aux Quat’Saison, the hotel should succeed in becoming the destination-in-its-own right that it wants to be, its location in Reading acting more as incentive (less than an hour by train or car from London) than a hindrance. The Forbury is a grand red brick building once used as council chambers and is in a gentrified part of town overlooking the landscaped Forbury Gardens and a modern granite and glass square, home to a new Carluccio’s and a smart French restaurant.

Why it's special

The décor is anything but “hotel griege”, with striking metallic and pink floral wallpaper, boldly patterned sofas of the sort you’d see in Heals, plus the marble floors and pillars of the original building. Striking design features include a wrought iron and glass-encased column that runs through the centre of the building and used to house the lift but now surrounds dangling strings of 80,000 glass beads. There’s also the art, much of it commissioned by the hotel, including the nude, sporting print and impressionist landscape in each bedroom. A bag of goodies including slippers, massage oil and massage tool, stationery, and bizarrely, a miniature rubber duck, welcomes every guest. There’s also the hotel ipod that plays through the discreet speakers throughout the hotel. It was programmed by Rob Wood, the erstwhile editor of the cutting edge fanzine, Jockey Slut, who’s chosen a series of compilations to play at specific times of day. Finally, there’s the short films that play in the 30-seat cinema – the hotel sent bar manager Toby to Cuba in search of the ultimate mojito, while chef Neal Dove visited nearby farms to source quality local ingredients, and Cornish artist Simon Allen was filmed producing the wood and silver artwork that hangs in the lobby.

Hitting the sack

Smooth under-heated walnut floors, soft lighting and huge beds groaning under more Heals style pillows and throws make for lavish retreats. They’re rooms you want to spend time in, whether it’s a candlelit bath or a rummage through the minibar stocked with imaginative goodies, from intimate fortune cookies to a reflexology foot sock, or your favourite drink (a question you’re asked at reception). The Bang and Olufsen television, CD and DVD will keep many amused, and the indie CD and DVD selection, again chosen by Wood, makes a nice change – Sideways and José Gonzalez instead of Titanic and Norah Jones.

Sampling the fare

Cerise Restaurant and Bar is already popular with a fashionable early 30s crowd from Reading, so is not in danger of suffering dreary hotel bar syndrome – at the weekends at least. The bar is all crocodile leather-effect seats, burnished silver tables, intimate alcove seating and more flashes of shocking pink, from the soft furnishings to a delicate embroidering on the shirts of the waitresses. Art Deco cocktail shakers are displayed in glass cabinets, classic cocktails come in slender hi-ball glasses, and there’s a bar menu of trendy international tapas, including falafel, sushi and Russian caviar. The restaurant menu changes every couple of months. Current starters include pressed terrine of ham hock, piccalilli and rustic bread (£6.50) and grilled lobster, watercress and shallot salad (£14.50), while main courses include two styles of guinea fowl with braised lentil and Toulouse sausage (£14.50) and roast sea bass with seared scallops and creamed shrimp and bacon cabbage (17.75). The wine list caters for all tastes and includes interesting additions such as a white from Santa Cruz, although perhaps a choice of four mineral waters is a step too far.

Access all areas

There is wheelchair access at the side of building and there is a suite on the ground floor.

What we think

At first glance I thought a boutique Reading hotel was something of a misnomer, but the energy and imagination behind this venture overcame my prejudices and I’d certainly return.

Bottom line

Rooms start from £150 including VAT but not breakfast.

Need to know

The Forbury Hotel, 26 The Forbury, Reading, Berks. RG1 3EJ, tel. 08000 789 789, www.theforburyhotel.co.uk, info@theforburyhotel.co.uk

Times recommends

• Win a Zeppelin flight over London
• A first timer's guide to... Morocco
• The budget guide to the French Riviera