Lovely Lewes, with its antiquarian bookshops, busy crown court and proximity to the South Downs and Glyndebourne, is not overwhelmed with hotels, so the opening last November of Pelham House was doubtless welcome.

The hotel, owned by five local families, is described as “Pelham House Conference Centre and Hotel”. The emphasis must be deliberate as I felt there was an institutional feel to the property, with its many function rooms. There was also, at Saturday check-out time, a shortage of staff.

My visit started well with a car park space reserved as promised (parking is tricky in Lewes) and an offer of help with my luggage. The deluxe bedroom was spacious, with a beautiful south-facing view, and painted grey with one striking lilac wall. However, the blind did not keep out the early morning light, and there was no full-length mirror.

The bathroom was small with only a shower, which did not drain properly, and there was a smell of drains which dissipated overnight. The pipework shuddered noisily while the shower was running.

Dinner was terrific. We ate at the hotel’s partner restaurant Circa, a short walk along the high street, which also provides the food in the hotel brasserie. The menu sounded pretentious: my starter of “blue swimming crab, yam beans green, BBQ wrap, hot yellow soup” was a big spring roll with a small bowl of soup, but every choice was delicious. Likewise the cooked breakfast (a £6.95 supplement) next morning was good, although surely Lewes, with its many delis, could furnish toast more inspiring than “white or brown”? And why was music turned on halfway through breakfast when everyone was enjoying a quiet start to the day with the papers?

Bottom line: Cath Urquhart paid £150 for a deluxe double, including continental breakfast. Rooms from £90-£200.

Sampling the fare: She paid £107 for a three-course dinner for two with drinks.

What we think: Comfortable and stylish, but only 6 of the 23 rooms have a bath.

Best thing: The food — be sure to book at popular Circa (01273 471777, www.circacirca.com).

Worst thing: the bathroom.

Need to know: Pelham House (01273 488600, www.pelhamhouse.com).

Access all areas: one bedroom is accessible.

Room: 6 out of 10.
Food: 9 out of 10.
Service: 6 out of 10.

Times recommends

• Win a Zeppelin flight over London
• A first timer's guide to... Morocco
• The budget guide to the French Riviera