The hotel? A small ferry leaves Lymington Pier and drops you
just a few feet away from the garden of The George. In fact, Yarmouth is so
small that the ferry drops you just a few feet from anywhere in town. But
see that nice green lawn as the ferry pulls in? That’s where you’re heading.
Slip off your shoes, order a G&T and ponder the fate of all those poor
souls stuck in a traffic jam somewhere else. The mainland is only three
miles away, and it’s strangely reassuring to be able to keep an eye on where
you left everything behind.
I’m feeling better already. That’s the spirit. The
George used to be the official residence of the governor of the island. The
entrance hall, with its flagstone flooring, cream-and- yellow panelling and
discreetly placed reception desk, immediately makes you feel as if you are
visiting a grand home rather than a bland hotel. The wooden staircase is
surprisingly broad, until you realise it was built to allow the unruffled
passage of the wide-hooped skirts of its time.
Upstairs, there are 17 bedrooms — some are boldly decorated in deep red, the
others have a nice way with chintz. One of the rooms has a four-poster bed;
two others share a balcony deck overlooking the garden and the Solent. When
we arrived at dusk, added entertainment was provided by a naval frigate
perfecting its turning circle just offshore.
Back downstairs, you can slip further into the holiday spirit with a quick
aperitif in the wood-panelled residents’ sitting room, with board games,
fading copies of Country Life and log fire included.
For the best dining on the island, you have to travel about 10ft, back across
the entrance hall, to the Michelin-starred restaurant (remember to dress
“smart casual”) or the less formal brasserie. The menu for the formal table
d’hôte is typical modern English, with good twists on lamb, rabbit and fish
dishes. In the brasserie, there is a larger selection of seafood — we had a
very tasty lobster in a mussel sauce. Whatever you go for, take a stroll
around the garden after the main course — the sea air might just stoke your
appetite in time for pudding.
Besides scoffing, what is there to do around here? The Isle
of Wight isn’t known for its nightlife, and outside Cowes Week, life has a
wonderfully gentle pace. There are a couple of good pubs in Yarmouth, but
otherwise you don’t come here to do things. You come to do nothing.
Perhaps a little walk? If you brought the car, get in it and
drive over to the Needles. It’s the best walk on the island, with all the
ingredients for a classic: dramatic scenery, with cliffs on either side; a
best time of the day (sunset, when the light from the sea on three sides is
fantastic); sheep (plenty); and something to make you try to remember your
O-level geo-graphy at the end of it (eroded chalk-cliff thingies). In all,
it takes about an hour — a little bit more if you time it right and visit
the tearoom out at the point.
Walking = appetite. Right, back in the car and head for the
New Inn at Shalfleet (01983 531314), one of the best pubs in the country. It
has great food, a gigantic menu, with seafood cooked every possible way, and
a long, proud wine list, with some options even some experts might not have
heard of. A glass of Picpoul, anyone?
I’ve still got itchy feet. When will you learn to
relax? What you need is a nice, gentle hobby. Collecting antiques, for
instance. Head to Ventnor, where every shop has something good in it.
Who should go? Anyone who wants a real break, but doesn’t
expect too much excitement when they get there.
Who shouldn’t go? Clubbers, stress junkies, people who
insist on good mobile-phone coverage.
The George (01983 760331, www.thegeorge.co.uk)
has doubles from £175, B&B (with balcony from £225); table d’hôte
dinner in the restaurant costs £45 for three courses (closed Monday and
Sunday); in the brasserie, mains cost about £15.
Ferry transfers from Lymington take half an hour and cost £10.60 return
for foot passengers and from £41 for a car and up to four passengers,
through Wightlink (0870 582 7744, www.wightlink.co.uk).
Check for internet discounts
