Finding Pennyhill Park was easy – when I printed out directions from the hotel’s website it offered a neat one-page document with regional and local map and comprehensive directions. It’s a simple service, but thoughtful for first-time guests.

There is a downside to browsing the website though – the disappointment on arrival when you find that the beautiful ivy-clad façade of the hotel that adorns the website is not the view that welcomes you. You only get a hint of it through the trees and are instead greeted by an ugly electronic scrolling sign set into a block of stone that presumably welcomes companies on conference days.

The entrance too is a let down – it’s more mock than matured, and it’s the modern annexe buildings and the vast spa that you see, rather than the older part of the hotel. The handsome butlers in tailcoats don’t let the side down though – with their crisp pink cravats and broad smiles, and once inside the reception, you’re in country house hotel heaven.

The flagstone floors, oil paintings, rugs in deep colours, fireplaces and quirky antiques such as a confession box, set the tone, although staff were cheerful rather than formal, and within minutes we were shown our room.

Our room was a suite overlooking the spa and the lawns at the back of the hotel. It was large with low ceilings and huge windows on two sides. We were in a modern extension to the oldest part of the house, which actually only dates to the 1920s, but the design was sensitive to the original.

The furniture was genuine though - numerous objects of polished mahogany - wardrobe, dresser, desk, occasional tables and so on, trying to fill the cavernous room, and a vast four-poster bed situated in the centre of the room to dramatic effect. The overall effect was a touch of grandeur but not so much that you were put off touching anything for fear of leaving fingerprints or mug rings.

The bathroom had an attractive claw-foot bath and huge drenching shower but the under-floor heating was a little too warm and didn’t seem to cool down after I adjusted the dial.

There was a mini-bar and offer of free fresh milk and biscuits, bathrobe and slippers and a teddy bear to leave outside instead of a “do not disturb” sign.

We had our evening meal at Latymers, the smarter of the hotel’s two restaurants that’s overseen by Michelin-rated chef Michael Wignall. The décor is a touch more contemporary than the hotel lobby – and to my surprise, the lavish wallpaper prints, bold artwork and spotted armchairs in the lounge outside the restaurant worked well with the original features. Here diners start with aperitifs and canapés before heading into the more intimate atmosphere of the wood-panelled restaurant.

The tables around the edge are best for elbowroom and bagging the snug olive green banquette seating – if you go for the full tasting menu it’ll be a long (and sumptuous) evening, so its pays to be comfortable and out of the way of the passing waiting staff.

The other diners were mostly couples on special evenings out and small family groups who all seemed to be enjoying the food as much as we did – I didn’t see a plate that didn’t go back to the kitchen clean.

The Tasting Menu offers nine courses for £78 per person but we opted for three courses a la carte, which nearly topped nine with the canapés and amuse bouche between courses.

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