Regency Square is home to B&Bs of every persuasion – from the grotty-carpeted, potted-plant variety right through to the bawdy rock ’n’ roll camp of the Pelirocco.

It also has the Una, which opened two years ago. This is a simple, unpretentious, stylish affair: pale stripped wood, dark leather furniture, lots of art. Indeed, unlike some other boutiques in Brighton, it seems to pride itself on simplicity. There are no gimmicks, no kitsch decor, no tongue-in-cheek sauciness, and no theming – bar the fact that all the rooms are named after rivers.

I checked in at the smallest reception desk I have ever seen, and entered a tiny lift to my room, the Lossie, a double on the second floor with views over the square and oblique views of the sea and the wreck of the old West Pier. The room wasn’t large, but the Una seems to have a Tardis-like talent for making the most of space. The decor continued seamlessly from the public areas: simple and cool, in shades of brown, fawn and cream.

There was a beautiful old fireplace and deliciously creaky wooden floors and doors. The bathroom was small but well designed, with silky-smooth tiling, a top-notch shower and lashings of Molton Brown’s finest. A super king-size double bed looked directly towards a vast 42in flat-screen TV. Everywhere there was a lingering scent of something subtle and expensive. The only thing I could fault in this room was the tiny wardrobe, which had barely enough room to swing a bathrobe in it.

There is no restaurant, just a bar. This clubby-looking room was pleasant, but I struggled to find a wine I wanted to drink by the glass. The first I tried, a tempranillo, was fairly undrinkable. The second, a merlot, was fine. The barman changed my first wine without a raised eyebrow. The staff at this hotel are unfailingly warm and friendly and can’t do enough for you.

I slept extremely well – maybe it’s the sea air, maybe the simple, soothing comfort of my room. It was delightful to wake, rested, to the sound-track of the sea, which crashed and whooshed in the distance on a grey, blustery morning.

Breakfast was fine: decent, fat, properly baked croissants, juices, the usual cereals. I ordered porridge with maple syrup (far too runny, but still tasted good). A request for fruit resulted in a large bowl of chopped pineapple, kiwi and strawberries; being December, I would have preferred some seasonal English produce from a Sussex orchard.

While I ate, I enjoyed my ringside view of the square and its cast of characters through a long Regency sash, particularly a bedraggled man in a wet suit, still rubbing the sleep from his eyes, hurrying towards the stormy beach with a surfboard under his arm. Only in Brighton.

Bottom line: Kate Quill paid £140 for a B&B double.
Sampling the fare: Comprehensive breakfast, averagely cooked.
Best thing: Friendly service.
Worst thing: Poor choice of wines by the glass.
Connected? Wi-fi in the bar.
Access all areas: No wheelchair-friendly rooms.

Need to know:
Hotel Una, 55-56 Regency Square, Brighton BN1 2FF
01273 820464
www.hotel-una.co.uk

Room: 8 out of 10.
Food: 6 out of 10.
Service: 9 out of 10.
Value: 7 out of 10.

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