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From The Times

February 25, 2006

Abode, Bath Street, Glasgow

We send a mystery guest under the covers...

The 60-room ABode hotel, which opened in Glasgow in December, is from the team behind the Bath Priory and Gidleigh Park, with sister properties in Exeter and Canterbury. It is housed in a fine Edwardian building on Bath Street, and couldn’t be better placed to enjoy the shopping, eating and drinking in Scotland’s most vibrant city. Judging by my recent visit, however, the location is one of the better things going for the hotel while it finds its feet.

The area beyond reception is fabulous, tarted up but essentially altered little since its 1911 inception as a Department of Education building, with stained-glass windows, gold lions on the wall and glazed brick. The old-style lift has an internal gate, which, if left open by guests, means it sits on a particular floor going nowhere.

Rooms come in four sizes — Comfortable, Desirable, Enviable and Fabulous. I was in 215, a Comfortable, which exuded paint fumes, so I was moved (without fuss). My new Comfortable ground-floor room, 101, was a decent size, with flat-screen TV, paintings, soft bed, internet connection, air-conditioning and an adequate bathroom with bespoke smellies. I didn’t realise 101 was right above the hotel’s café bar, where a DJ plays at weekends. I certainly did later on.

I had booked dinner for myself and Glaswegian friend Karyn a month in advance at the hotel’s Michael Caines fine dining restaurant, and there was my name on the list. So I was miffed to be told when I turned up on time: “We don’t have any tables for two available right now, please go for a drink and we’ll come and get you later.”

The Vibe bar downstairs lacked atmosphere and looked as if fitted out by Ikea. Back upstairs, the food itself was good (scallops robust, pheasant full of flavour, tarte tatin just right), except for the three varieties of bread, which all tasted of absolutely nothing. Returning to my room at 11.30, the DJ downstairs was in full flow, the beat making my bed vibrate. Faliraki comes to Glasgow, all from the comfort of my own duvet.

Breakfast was a huge disapointment and my Kiwi waitress was from the “customer as inconvenience” school of service. I was almost afraid to ask for milk or butter, and the fatty, tasteless fry-up could have come out of a transport caff on the M8.

“ABode Glasgow feels like a posh Travelodge,” said Karyn. Until it has pulled its finger out, save yourself a few bob and stay at the latter.

Bottom line: Will Hide paid £99 for a “Comfortable” double room.

Sampling the fare: Three- course dinner was about £50 a head. Breakfast was £12.95.

What we think: Trying hard, but not yet there.

Best thing: Great location, nice decor.

Worst thing: Staff are friendly, but lack professionalism.

Access all areas: One room is converted for disabled guests.

Need to know: 129 Bath Street, Glasgow G2 2SZ (0141-221 6789, www.abodehotels.co.uk).

Room: 6 out of 10.

Food: Dinner 8 out of 10; breakfast 2 out of 10.

Service: 5 out of 10.