The first time I checked in to the elegant baronial pile that dominates the North Bridge in Edinburgh, I was offered a job. Then it was the head offices of The Scotsman newspaper, now it’s a plush hotel of the same name. Staying the night there costs more these days, but it’s worth it.

Standing between Princes Street and the Royal Mile, the hotel is ideally placed as a sanctuary from Bob Geldof’s G8 rock’n’roll show today and the amiable chaos of the Edinburgh Festival in August.

The Scotsman is a stylish blend of old and new, retaining traditional features such as a marble staircase and stained glass windows, and introducing Scotland’s first stainless steel swimming pool, 16m (50ft) long, set in dark slate and bathed in soft lights and cool music.

The ethos is understated luxury, chic without being stuffy, and the service is in tune with the mood. When my partner Claire admired a funky chandelier in the walnut-panelled reception, she was told by a bell-boy that it was made from his mum’s grapefruit bowls. Nae pretentious nonsense here.

Our room was light and spacious, with a huge, comfortable bed and soft pillows. An eclectic mix of original art on the walls was complemented by a geek’s paradise of widescreen TV with 60 digital channels, DVD, CD, and high-speed internet access with printer. There are also clever surprises, such as a well-stocked wine rack and a serving hatch for room service without the personnel. Black tiles and chrome glistened in the smart bathroom, which had a good heavy-duty shower rose, and Molton Brown toiletries.

We stayed on a night when the Vermilion restaurant was closed, and loosened a few buttons instead in the hotel’s North Bridge Brasserie. We ate and drank well on a galleried landing with a view through a leaded window to Robert Louis Stevenson’s favourite haunt on Calton Hill.

Bottom line: Gavin Bell booked his Study Room the day before he stayed and was offered a dinner, B&B package for £190 for two.

Need to know: The Scotsman (0131-556 5565, www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk), 20 North Bridge, Edinburgh.

Sampling the fare: A good selection of classic dishes in the brasserie and decent wines from £14.50 to £50.

Access all areas: Lifts and ramps everywhere.

Room: 8 out of 10.
Food: 7 out of 10.
Service: 9 out of 10.
Value: 9 out of 10.

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