First impressions

Shapinsay is a 20-minute ferry crossing from Kirkwall. As the ferry approaches, a castle loaded with turrets looms out of the mist. You arrive in the village and an avenue of trees trails up to the entrance.

Why it’s special

Truly Victorian; even the wallpaper and the paint are original. Eccentricities abound, as do stuffed owls. The house even has a secret passage.

Hitting the sack

Of the seven rooms the Laird’s Room is the nicest, with a carved four-poster, silver candlesticks, dressing tables and prints.

Sampling the fare

It’s a family home and the family will have dinner with you if they like the look of you. Fiona does the cooking, which consists mainly of game, pork and lamb and shellfish caught within sight of the castle.

Added attractions

Remote, almost forgotten Shapinsay is seven miles by three miles, big on peace and quiet and home to puffins, seals and wildflowers.

Access all areas

No ramps or lifts, so difficult for wheelchair users.

The bottom line

From £85pp half-board.

What we think

For those who are in need of retreat or romance — with good food.

Need to know

Balfour Castle (01856 711282, www.balfourcastle.com), Shapinsay, Orkney, Scotland.

Kilmichael Country House Hotel, Isle of Arran

This hotel encapsulates the boutique ethos - characterful, small, stylish, superior food, and genteel service, says Ginny McGrath

Background

• Auchrannie Country House Hotel, Isle of Arran

• Balfour Castle, Orkney

• Baltasound Hotel, Unst, Shetlands

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• More reviews of Scottish island hotels

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