To the west were the wilds of Greenland, Canada and Alaska. To the east were the freezing landscapes of Norway, Finland and deepest, darkest Siberia. I was a very long way north - and I was on holiday in Britain.

This felt strange. Before visiting Unst, Britain's most northerly populated island, I hadn't realised quite how far “up” the country went. But there I was on a small Shetland island with 600 inhabitants, an awful lot of sheep, a fair few Shetland ponies, plus thousands of razorbills and gannets - farther “up” than Oslo or St Petersburg.

I stared at the chintzy curtains and pine-wood walls in my room, thinking: “How on earth have I found myself here?”

The Baltasound is no design hotel, but it is Britain's most northerly, with clean, simple rooms - some in peculiar red bungalows - each with fine views across a sloping peat landscape leading down to the sea.

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This hotel encapsulates the boutique ethos - characterful, small, stylish, superior food, and genteel service, says Ginny McGrath

Background

• Auchrannie Country House Hotel, Isle of Arran

• Balfour Castle, Orkney

• Baltasound Hotel, Unst, Shetlands

Related Internet Links

• More reviews of Scottish island hotels

The views made the long journey worth the effort. While the hotel's decor was dull, the reception smelt faintly of fried food, and a gutter flapped in the wind by my window, the splendid scenery cast all minor grumbles aside.

Like the other guests - and there weren't many - I explored the island taking in spectacular cliffs by Muckle Flugga lighthouse in the north, the 16th-century castles and the old Viking sites. I was lucky to have fine weather, and at night the stars in a cloudless sky shone brightly in a way they never do “down south”. There was blissful, almost eerie silence: I can't remember feeling so peaceful.

The hotel is in Baltasound, the main settlement and once a bustling herring port. Its bar is the centre of much local life. Crofters and fishermen played darts, laughed and ordered “wee drams” of whisky or pints of Valhalla beer.

A bearded man told me about Up Helly Aa, the annual Viking-inspired festival, and downed a pint of Woodpecker. Another told me that she was a “Shetlander, not a Scot”, and polished off a wee dram. It was virtually impossible not to get chatting. The Baltasound was a real place, sometimes rough and ready, and not tarted up for tourists.

My haddock and chips was ordinary, heading towards dire, but I didn't mind.

I had learnt to take The Baltasound as it came. I was as far north as the Mystery Guest can go, it was beautiful, and that was enough for me.

Bottom line Mystery Guest paid £50 for a B&B single; doubles £80.

Sampling the fare Haddock and chips cost £6.50.

Best thing The silence.

Worst thing Greasy food.

Need to know Baltasound (01957 711334, www.baltasound-hotel.shetland.co.uk), Unst, Shetland ZE2 9DS.

Room 4 out of 10

Food 3 out of 10

Service 7.5 out of 10

Value 7 out of 10

Score 5.38

PUT TO THE TEST: 20 Mystery Guest questions for... Baltasound Hotel, Unst, Shetlands

1. Do rooms have kettles/coffee makers? And is there fresh milk?

Kettles and fresh milk on request.

2. Is there a hairdryer, and is it fixed to a wall?

A hairdryer can be requested from reception.

3. Are coathangers metal, wooden, removable?

Plastic coathangers, removable.

4. Complimentary bottle of water?

No.

5. Sheets and blankets or duvets?

Sheets and duvets.

6. What about a 'pillow menu'?

People who are allergic to feathers can request synthetic pillows.

7. Is lighting good enough for reading?

Yes.

8. Is there a shaving/make up mirror? And is it well lit?

No.

9. What about the in-room entertainment system?

Tiny TV.

10. Is there a temperature control panel?

Yes, on the small electric heater.

11 . Do the windows open?

Yes.

12 . Is there good sound-proofing?

Reasonable.

13 . Is there wi-fi internet access?

No.

14 . Is there a good place to go jogging nearby?

Plenty of countryside to jog in.

15 . What is the vegetarian food selection like?

Poor.

16 . Is there baby listening/babysitting? And are children welcome at adults' evening meals?

No. but children welcome at meals.

17. Is there wheelchair access to all areas?

Steps to the reception. Wheelchair users must call in advance to gain access via a side door.

18. Do you get a free paper in the morning?

No.

19. Is there a pub round the corner?

Small pub/bar connected to the hotel.

20. Is there free car parking? And is it secure?

Yes, but no need for security on the small island, which has little crime.

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