As welcomes go, this is a masterclass in how not to greet your guests. While we’re registering, the receptionist, who has clearly had her smile surgically removed, announces: “You’ve not booked dinner and the restaurant’s totally full.”

Well, actually, I say, I booked dinner for 8pm when I made the reservation. “It’s not down here,” she says, offhand to the point of brusqueness, and points to a list of bookings. “I can only do you 9.10pm, so you can either eat then or in the bar.”

We accept 9.10pm and, with no hint of apology nor offer to help with the luggage, she leads us to our room. Not a good start. Within five minutes, the lavatory starts flushing of its own accord. And flushes again. And again.

But it’s uphill from there. The man who comes to sort out the plumbing turns out to be the owner, Charles Bowman. With Bertie Wooster-ish affability, he gets it fixed within ten minutes and tells us that dinner at 8pm will be no problem.

Appeased, we take in this extended 17th-century coaching inn, which has a high reputation and a glorious riverside setting in the Forest of Bowland, a pocket of plush rural charm with twisting lanes, hawthorn hedgerows, banks of bluebells, curlews, lapwings and watchful pheasants.

The Inn is a bustling, characterful place, with a warren of rooms and bars, creaking floorboards, open fires, lived-with antiques and plenty of stuffed foxes and sporting prints.

The view from the back rooms is spectacularly verdant; each window offers a perfectly composed landscape painting. Our front room has less in the way of views, but is comfortable in a friendly, country-house way, with a canopied bed, a power shower and spray, though oddly no “tea or coffee-making facilities” (too bourgeois?).

At 8pm, our table is ready in the restaurant, a contrast to the rest of the hotel with its clean, cool lines. On a menu geared to flesh-eaters, my vegetarian wife finds a flavoursome tomato and pepper soup and an unimaginative potato and onion rosti. After tomato and mozzarella tart, my pan-fried halibut is interestingly teamed with lemon and prawn risotto, but dry.

It’s a leisurely meal (almost three hours), served with good humour, and breakfast includes five-star kippers.

But it’s the reception we’ll remember.

Bottom line: Stephen McClarence paid £112 for a double, including breakfast.

Sampling the fare: Dinner for two was £56, including £15 for wine.

What we think: Shouldn’t coast on its reputation.

Best thing: The setting.

Worst thing: Unfriendly welcome.

Access all areas: Wheelchair access to one bedroom and bar, but not restaurant.

Need to know: The Inn at Whitewell (01200 448222, www.greatinns.co.uk), Forest of Bowland, near Clitheroe, Lancashire.

Room: 8 out of 10.

Food: 6 out of 10.

Service: Sometimes 1, sometimes 8, out of 10.

Reader Feedback on The Inn at Whitewell:

On arrival, we were given a bedroom containing a four foot high bed with no means of climbing into it. As we are in our seventies, we rejected it and instead had a small, cramped room with a sit-up-and-beg slipper bath shaped like a boot. Food and service were satisfactory enough but we were not overly impressed for the price. I doubt if we will go again. Roger May, Stroud, Gloucestershire

What a fabulous place !!!! Four of us stayed last night and the food, service and cask ale is second to none. Would recommend to anyone. Helen Cook, Widnes, UK

I stayed here several years ao as a lone woman on business travel. I found the service to be beyond compare. This is a superb place to stay. The rooms are excellent. Contrary to my usual experiences, this hotel did not seat me next to the kitchen or service area in the restaurant. I was also in the early stages of pregnancy, and feeling very nauseous. It was no problem for the chef, who at his suggestion cooked me a lighter meal. I wish I had more reasons to visit this part of the world again, just so I could once more enjoy The Inn at Whitewell. Susie Morley, Battle, East Sussex

I and a friend have been twice to the Inn and found it delightful; friendly, efficient and with excellent food in both dining room and bar. Richard Bowman was kindness itself and gave us the entree to some private fishing because, with the foot and mouth epidemic, river fishing was unavailable. The next time we went, fishing on the Hodder and below the hotel was a bonus. I agree with your correspondent about the integral wineshop. Our first night on our first visit was made very festive with a wine tasting open to all guests, to say nothing of the bottles we took home. Felicity Butcher, Bath, England

Had a fantastic time at the Inn at Whitewell. In contrast to Mr McClarence's experience I found the service excellent. However I guess a busy night must try everyone's nerves somewhat. One of my favourite things about the Inn is the in-house wine shop which makes for a far more interesting wine list than one would expect in a rural setting in Lancashire. Thankfully a very comfortable bed and a delcious English breakfast worked hard to offset the previous nights indulgence. I think its a great place to stay and in comparison to London prices, its a bargain for such high quality. Robert Medd, London

I am a frequenter of this establishment of excellence and have, at no time, experienced anything other than the highest possible standards of food, comfort and ambience. But above all the factor that sets it, and others of its class, (of which there are few) apart, is the service:- attentive to the smallest detail, perpetually good humoured and executed with the maximum of grace and minimum of hassle. We'll always be back! James Webb, Carlisle, Cumbria

I have been staying at the Inn at Whitewell for a number of years and find it an ideal retreat to unwind and recharge the batteries. Initially I was very saddened by some of the comments placed about service and the staff. I have always found the staff welcoming, courteous and attentive. To me if someone has made a gesture to pay for dinner it should be greatly recieved, to consider it "cheap" is rude. Upon reflection I am pleased by some of the negative reviews as it means only those who truly appreciate what the IAW has to offer will return. Trying to get a room is virtually impossible so great is the popularity of the hotel, testament itself surely. Ps: have the fish pie followed by sticky toffee pudding for lunch and then choose a fell to climb to work it off. J Hine, London

I have been to the Inn at Whitewell on about eight occasions - relations living in the area - and every time the service has been excellent and the food exceptional. If only there was an equivalant place in SW Norfolk! James Boyce, Swaffham, Norfolk

I have stayed at The Inn at Whitewell many times and have always been made to feel welcome and comfortable. It's a beautiful old hotel with a great restaurant and wine list. I have recommended it to many friends all of whom enjoyed their time there. Tara Rapaccioli, Ealing, London

Having stayed many times at the IAW over several years, I was very disappointed to find in our most recent stay (in August) a rude and abrupt welcome at reception (a common theme in these emails); a very disappointing room (CH22 which smelt throughout of sewage!) and appalling food service in the bar. As if that wasn't enough, breakfast was served rudely and incompletely, and despite strong complaints, no manager appeared for over an hour. The IAW should fix these serious shortcomings in service and its attention to legitimate complaints from guests - you can only rest on your reputation for so long, and I for one will not be back. Simon Howell, Manchester

I entirely agree with your assessment. My wife and I arrived for a dinner. No one offered to tell us where to go. We were completely ignored. The food was average and the service amateur and unacceptably slow with lamentable gaps between courses. This place is definitely relying on the reputation built up by the former owner and it is a shame. David Gee, Arnside, UK

Having stayed at the Inn in 2005 and dined there on many occasions, we decided to have our small wedding at the Inn in August 2006. A week before the wedding, the wedding co-ordinator phoned to say that unfortunately our wedding was booked in for 2007 and in fact they had another large wedding taking place on our wedding day!! Not surprisingly this caused numerous problems for us (too many to even begin to list!), resulting with us getting married at the Inn and then dashing off before the other wedding party arrived to have our reception at home. The co-ordinator was rude and completely unhelpful in dealing with the problems caused by the "administrative error". However, once I contacted the owner Mr Bowman and explained what had happened he pulled out all the stops to rectify the situation. Despite everything we would return to the Inn to stay as the setting is wonderful and the food is delicious, especially the kippers. Joanne Seymour, Lancashire

I have been lucky enough to have dined at most of the fine dining establishments in Lancashire, and without fail regularly (weekly actually!) return to the Inn at Whitewell. My husband and I can find no comparative. Rarely do we have a problem with any of our visits (I am a trained chef and hotel manager and my husband is a bit of a wine buff). The cosy, unstuffy, atmosphere, the friendliness of the staff (I do agree somewhat with the comment on the unwelcoming reception for guests and diners, and more has to be done in this particular area) is quite simply unique. The fare is competitively priced, and more importantly it is fresh and local. Joan, Clitheroe, Lancashire

We have been going to the Inn for the last 13 years on an regular basis to eat in the bar and the restaurant and, on occasion, stay a night. The establishment is very much a family favourite. It has already been pointed out in another comment, that this type of eatery is very rare, if not unique for miles around and when we went on a Sunday night recently, it was packed but the service in the bar was very good. There was also a wedding on, but this did not impinge on the familys enjoyment. We will return! Alastair Campbell, Clitheroe, Lancashire

The Inn at Whitehall has something of a reputation around here. However I was not surprised to read your reviewer's description of the rude and unprofessional 'welcome' he received. A couple of years ago a friend and I arrived on a hot afternoon after an aimless drive through the beautiful Trough of Bowland and decided to drop in for refreshment. We were the only customers. Wayne ordered a cream tea but two bored-looking waitresses informed me that a cold drink would be impossible as the bar was shut and the Inn was preparing for a wedding party. Apparently a mineral water or juice was unobtainable. Eventually one of the teenagers reluctantly brought me a glass of tap water. She then stood close by and loudly chatted with another girl who'd just arrived for her shift. Wayne and I felt like two very unwanted intruders and we have never been back. Sian Peters, Lancaster, Lancashire

I have had the pleasure of staying at the Inn on a couple of occasions and always found the service very welcoming and friendly with nothing being too much trouble for the staff or the hands on owner! Louise Beckley, London

I stayed here in 2005. Food excellent, especially breakfast, nice bedroom, no problems with service, but plumbing that feels like it's also from the 17th century. Alexander, Derby, England

I have been to this hotel for meals on several occassions, when in the area, although have never stayed there. On each occasion I have found the service, food, beer and wine list to be splendid. My guess is that the reviewer must have arrived on an 'off day' as the discription of the reception staff sounds bizarrely out of character for the Whitewell. On my visits (including on this summer), I have certainly found all their staff to be charming, attentive and not overly intrusive. Although fine country inns are relatively commonplace in the south of the country, the Inn At Whitewell stands as a lone beacon for the north end of the country. There really is nothing quite like it in Lancashire or its surrounding counties. Bill Anderson, Kinross, Kinross-shire

I agree with your wife's opinion of the vegetarian food at The Inn at Whitewell. Several glowing reviews of the Inn and its food led me there for a late lunch several months ago. The staff were fine when we were there, helpful and welcoming to our two dogs. I wasn't let down by the location or interior but I was disappointed by the very limited vegetarian options on offer. My vegetarian meal was a bit of a letdown on both the taste and portion size. My boyfriend's meat dish wasn't particularly inspiring either. I agree that the Inn is coasting on its reputation and think that this is a great shame as the fabulous surroundings demand more imaginative cooking. I'll go back if things improve on the food front. Rachel Gregory, Liverpool, Merseyside

I was looking for somewhere special to celebrate a birthday last year. I telephoned the Inn at Whitewell and the receptionist had a manner which did not make me book the room plus dinner for an evening. She was abrupt and did not really seem like she wanted to even speak to me. I was totally put off. Looks like they still have the same problem at the reception. We went to Northcote Mannor instead. This was disappointing as we had been before and it was excellent. Food portions had gone a lot smaller and the service in the dinning room was very poor. When I complained at the reception on check out I was told they had new staff. I think more training was needed. Would not go back here again. Linthwaite House in the Lakes very good. Jo Platt, Wilmslow, Chehsire

We have been to the Inn at Whitewell many times and have always enjoyed our visits. The food and ambiance is the best in the area. We have never felt unwelcome in any way and have always found the service to be impeccable. Lisa Duckworth,Preston, Lancashire

Finding ourselves low in petrol in the beautiful Trough of Bowland, we called in at The Inn At Whitewell to ask where the nearest petrol pump was. The receptionist couldn't have been more helpful, not only telling us where the nearest pump was but that the operator also acted as the school taxi service for the area. She then made a call to find out if and when the garage would be open so enabling us to spend a much more pleasant hour than sitting frustrated outside a closed pump. Helen French, Lancaster, Lancs

Having stayed at this Inn many times over the last 6 years, I know exactly who was on reception when your reviewer checked in! We stayed just a few weeks ago to find ourselves in the middle of a wedding - a Whitewell speciality and difficult to avoid - this was mid-week. Service was shoddy and the food under par compared to previous visits (and the previous night when there was no wedding). On complaining at check-out your 'Bertie Wooster' was cheap enough to 'offer to buy dinner' and then proceeded to carefully check our bill to see exactly what we had ordered - £38.10 exactly - not including wine. A shame, but if you want a romantic bolt-hole with great food, peace and a warm welcome, you should have come a few years ago. I won't be returning. J McKenzie, Northwich Cheshire

Great base for walking in Forest of Bowland. Agree service variable, but good room at front for our visit Jan.05. Food very much better, faster, more fun in bar rather than (soul-less) dining room. Plan to return Jan.07 so can't be bad! Teresa Rose, Boston Spa, Yorkshire

if I could pick a short break anywhere, it would be the Inn at Whitewell. I was introduced to it by a colleague when I was working in the north. It was my little escape "treat" while I was in the area, and we've made the journey up there several times since. It's the cosiest, most carefully-put-together place I've stayed. The bedrooms are total comfort, even down to their B&O soundsystems, and with a peat fire in the room, it's an effort to drag yourself downstairs to eat. But worth it - an excellent restaurant, and satisfyingly well-presented bar food. Your visitor failed to mention that as well as a view of the river, the Inn offers the possibility of fly-fishing, which is how I manage to lure my husband so far north. I trust the offending receptionist has been allocated to other duties whilst undergoing re-training. Beryl Pratley, Stockbridge, Hampshire

Had exactly the same experience when staying there in June this year, we could not find a receptionist and eventually the bar manager helped us! The room was amazing and the setting, but something about the place was quite odd, but still liked it. I complained about no tea-making equipment and it was made quite clear - "in the main house of course not". Anon

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