The boutique B&B has arrived in North Yorkshire, with all the style-consciousness that implies. 17 Burgate, which, oddly enough, is at 17 Burgate, describes itself as “an intriguing bed and breakfast concept”, which might make you fear the worst.

In fact, it’s an elegant, welcoming place, a good base for exploring the smart market town of Pickering, the North York Moors and “Heartbeat Country” (not to be confused with nearby “Captain Cook Country” or “Catherine Cookson Country”).

The B&B is a semi-retirement project for Pat and William Oxley, long-established hoteliers from near Leeds. Their hotel background perhaps accounts for the uncertainty about what this handsome Georgian house actually wants to be. Is it a B&B or is it the “market town house hotel” — another intriguing concept — that its publicity claims? It has five generously sized en suite bedrooms. Ours is well equipped (high-tech TV, trouser press, hairdryer) and sleekly furnished, with a comfortable bed, Indian-influenced fabrics and atmospheric lighting. It’s all so delightful that you can understand why the Oxleys want to establish a “child-free zone” (no under-12s).

The bathroom has artfully piled towels and upmarket toiletries. So far, so classy B&B, despite slow hot water and a shower that spills water over the floor.

Downstairs, however, feels more like a small hotel, with a bar lounge dominated by a plush red leather sofa. The dining room is surprisingly formal, with a waitress hovering at breakfast (ours is average, with lukewarm kippers and thin-sliced toast). When booking, we were told they didn’t do dinner, but it seems that midweek guests can book a “simple light supper”, including perhaps steak or pasta, at about £15 a head.

We take ourselves to the White Swan Inn around the corner for enterprising fried aubergine with lentils, and “posh fish and chips”. Posh? The chips come stacked like logs and . . . well, that’s about it.

Bottom line: Stephen McClarence paid £85 for a standard B&B double.

Sampling the fare: A workaday breakfast.

What we think: Stylish, comfortable, convenient.

Best thing: Civilised, adult atmosphere.

Worst thing: Unruly shower.

Need to know: 17 Burgate, Pickering, North Yorkshire (01751 473463, www.17burgate.co.uk).

Access all areas: Wheelchair access difficult.

Room: 8 out of 10.
Food: 6 out of 10
Service: 8 out of 10.

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