Winter is a perfect time to visit the Lake District if, like me, you strike lucky with the weather and get a gloriously fresh weekend, free from summer crowds and traffic jams. I chose Bassenthwaite because it is a good base for easy fell walking, using the Pheasant Inn as my base.

The whitewashed building was a farmhouse 500 years ago, converted to an alehouse in 1778. Today, it has 15 en suite rooms: all are spacious, except the small single room. They are individually decorated in a Laura Ashley-esque way and have decent-sized bathrooms with both bath and shower. Although I had instant and plentiful hot water, one couple I talked to complained that theirs never got beyond lukewarm.

Televisions are on request only, but who needs them when you have Bassenthwaite Lake (there are ospreys in summer) a short walk away and 3,053ft Skiddaw dominating the skyline on the other side?

There are three lounges, with log fires, in which to linger over the newspapers or afternoon tea. There’s no Muzak — the gentle hum of conversation, a crackling log and creaking doors are the only sounds. The atmospheric bar, its nicotine-stained walls festooned with hunting prints and rugby team photos, comes with a corner of jolly regulars and a good selection of local beers.

In the restaurant, a reduced menu was on offer as the kitchen was being refurbished (not mentioned when booking). The first night’s meal was good but not great. The second night was more of a success with rack of lamb and a Malibu panna cotta with lemon curd ice-cream and mandarin segments. Breakfast, with just-squeezed orange juice, fresh figs in the fruit salad, chunky door-stop bread cut to make toast, and lamb’s kidneys, Cumbrian sausage and apple rings in the grill, was tasty.

The young staff did a fine job — a warm greeting on arrival, and efficient, smiling, friendly service thereafter. At the Pheasant you won’t find a spa, internet access, or even a signal for your mobile phone. What you get is genuine courtesy and charm.

Bottom line: Will Hide paid £180 for a double with dinner, B&B.

Sampling the fare: three-course dinner £28. House wine £13.25.

Need to know: The Pheasant, nr Cockermouth, Cumbria; 017687 76234, www.the-pheasant.co.uk.

Room: 8 out of 10.

Food: 8 out of 10.

Service: 10 out of 10.

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