Election postscript: Sedgefield, the village at the heart of Tony Blair’s constituency, was gearing up this week for the year’s most eagerly-awaited event — the medieval fair on the village green. A fortnight today, it will feature a tug of war, Punch and Judy, and a white elephant stall, so politicians should feel perfectly at home.

Best known for its racecourse, Sedgefield is pretty and prosperous-looking. Handsome houses cluster around the green, which has seven smart pubs within easy staggering distance.

One of them, the Dun Cow, is marketed as a regular haunt of Tony Blair as well as being the place where he and Cherie took George and Laura Bush to lunch in 2003. With more than 1,000 police on duty, the President ate fish and chips with mushy peas, as 300 peace protesters chanted “Gan yem”, dialect for “Go home!”

The long, low, quietly convivial pub has six bedrooms and a warren of traditional-style bars and candlelit dining rooms, with just the barest hint of horse brasses. Cool Britannia — remember that? — it is not.

My room, with its exposed beams, antique-style furniture and hunting prints (potential controversy there), had a cosy, cottage-like feel. It was well lit, with a trim lavatory and shower room (no bath) and a fine view of the local youth congregating outside the Chinese takeaway. Music and conversation from downstairs were intrusive in the early evening, but the noise subsided after dinner.

And that’s the point about the Dun Cow: the food, which is so satisfying that several fellow diners were totally absorbed by their meals. The menu is strong on steaks, fish and seafood (sea bass in olive oil with roast tomato; tagliatelle with mussels).

Like Blair on Iraq, I followed where Bush led and ordered fish and chips. They were superb: firm, stocky chips and a good foot of moist, crisply-battered Whitby cod draped across the plate. In a lifetime of ill-advised fish-and-chipping, I’ve never eaten better.

As for politics, I mentioned the election once but I think I got away with it.

Bottom line: B&B doubles £69.50 (£60 single).

Sampling the fare: starters about £5; mains £8–£16.

Access all areas: No wheelchair-friendly rooms.

Need to know: Dun Cow Inn, Front Street, Sedgefield, Co Durham (01740 620894, www.landmark-inns.co.uk).

Room: 7 out of 10.
Food: 9 out of 10.
Service: 7 out of 10.

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