THE friendly young woman on reception is taking a telephone booking as my wife and I arrive. When she comes off the phone, she introduces herself as Josie and breezily says: “Sorry to have kept you waiting, guys.”

“Guys?” I whisper to my wife as Josie leads us to our room. “It’s modern,” whispers my wife.

And so is Four High Petergate: a trim hotel in a Georgian town house nudging one of York’s four medieval gateways. It’s a superb location. Turn right at the front door and the city’s art gallery and main theatre are yards away; turn left and a two-minute walk along High Petergate confronts you with the West Front of York Minster, a breathtaking cliff-face of religious imagery.

Head upstairs from the hotel’s front door, however, and the cream carpet may strike you as grubby: a poor first impression.

Our room, one of 14, overlooks a small rear garden and the city walls. It is dominated by an Indonesian teak bed: handsome in itself, but there are no bedside tables. Nor is there a wardrobe, just a curtained-off alcove with pegs. Nor any drawers for clothes.

With its none-too-comfortable planter’s chair, the room aims for style, but ends up feeling stark. And there is no warning that the hot water in the bathroom (damaged lavatory seat, faulty washbasin plug) is almost scalding.

The bistro attached to the hotel promises “British dishes with an exciting twist”. Well, “exciting” pitches it a bit high, but the salmon fillet on herb linguine and roast vegetable charlotte are both admirably light and flavoursome.

The food’s presentation is artful to a fault: do you eat it or frame it? Only a yokel would consider spoiling the exquisite symmetry of these dishes by adding vegetables or side salad. But, at £16.50 for the salmon, you might reasonably expect something of the sort.

The menu is strong on game, the service is prompt, pleasant and unfussy, and the place hums with such easy sophistication that the staff seem completely unfazed when a party of seven fails to show.

Firm, comfortable bed; agreeable breakfast. The side is let down only by the unengaged receptionist (not breezy Josie) who checks us out. She is too indifferent by half, guys.

Bottom line: Doubles start at £90, including breakfast. Stephen McClarence paid £100 for a “superior” double.
Sampling the fare: A two-course dinner for two, with coffee and one dessert, cost £55.50, plus £12.95 for wine.
What we think: The hotel is serviceable, but unendearing and outclassed by its bistro.
Best thing: York Minster just down the road.
Worst thing: Charmless room.
Access all areas: One ground-floor guest room, but there are three steps from street to front door.
Need to know: Four High Petergate Hotel & Bistro (01904 658516, www.fourhighpetergate.co.uk), York.
Room: 5 out of 10.
Food: 8 out of 10.
Service: 7 out of 10.
Value: 6 out of 10.

Times recommends

• Win a Zeppelin flight over London
• A first timer's guide to... Morocco
• The budget guide to the French Riviera