Baslow Hall is a typical Derbyshire manor house in creeper-clad sandstone about 20 minutes south of Sheffield. Susan and Max Fischer opened here in 1990, but have been in Derbyshire for 25 years, starting off with a cream tea shop in Bakewell. Slowly the food developed and they gained a following, and Fischer’s is now a one Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms.

Guests are greeted with smiles and very engaging staff. Bedrooms are individually decorated with appealing florals (not too much) and chinoiserie, both of which offset the potentially heavy Edwardian baronial wood panelling, beams and leaded casements.

The corridor to my room was decorated in a blue orchid wallpaper. The floral theme continued into my bedroom, with purple clematis making their way up the walls and on to the curtains, which covered romantic mullioned windows overlooking the garden. All of which made the flat-screen TV a little incongruous. Thankfully there is no Edwardian plumbing in a modern marble bathroom.

But the food is king. An amuse-bouche arrived in the sitting room of the bar (oysters, sushi, crab cakes), and there were more at the table (haddock and whisky velouté) in the intimate dining room. Both augured well, especially the silky velouté. At last, there was a starter. Foie gras terrine with figs and toast, slightly greasy but sauternes jelly was a good textural combination. My main course was saddle of wild venison in a juniper jus. It could have been rarer, but had good, distinct flavours and a nice chewiness.

Amid a fine range of wines (£4.25 a glass, from £17 a bottle), we had a decent chablis, Les Malandes 2004 (£22.50), and a juicy merlot, Katnook 2000 (£31), both recommendations. We ended with a magnificent cheeseboard, which was spoilt only by the waiter not knowing much about the cheeses beyond their names. My companions also had the fresh fig tart, which came with a tasty goat cheese ice-cream. Excellent. I’m looking forward to a return.

Bottom line: Kieran Falconer paid £120 for a single room B&B.

Sampling the fare: Three-course menu of the day, Sunday to Friday evenings (£35), or dinner menu (£65).

What we think: Good rooms, excellent food, quality wine list, and set in beautiful Derbyshire countryside.

Best thing: The short distance between table and bed — plus Molly, the black cocker spaniel.

Worst thing: Miserable couple at the next dinner table who criticised everything.

Need to know: Fischer’s, Baslow Hall, Calver Road, Baslow, Derbyshire DE45 1RR. (01246 583259, www.fischers-baslowhall.co.uk).

Access all areas: Ground-floor garden rooms suitable for wheelchairs. Dining room takes one step to get into, but lavatories are up half a flight of stairs for men, two steps for women.

Room: 6 out of 10.

Food: 7 out of 10.

Service: 8 out of 10.

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