Herefordshire has some excellent local produce, and they champion it enthusiastically at The Stagg, five years ago the first UK pub to be awarded a Michelin star, which it has held since. In the rustic bar a blackboard even lists the suppliers, including the pub’s own garden.

There are three cosy rooms upstairs, but I had chosen one of three larger ones in the Old Vicarage, a handsome part-Georgian house down the road. Ours was charming: rug-strewn oak floorboards, big firm bed, wide-screen telly and solid antique furniture. Perfect, I thought, sampling an organic cider from the mini-bar.

But my girlfriend had discovered the bathroom. Dated suite, yes, but the main crime was the lack of a shower (only two rooms have them). She doesn’t do baths.

She doesn’t do cold, either. “How was I to know it was going to be minus six tonight?” I pleaded as we stumbled back up the road dinnerwards, torch in hand, a juggernaut thundering past.

However, inside the warm, busy pub, she thawed. We took in the hubbub of the gathered locals, reassured that The Stagg wasn’t one of those places only fraternised by out-of-town food fetishists — like, er, us.

On the restaurant menu, Herefordshire beef appears three times — I had the fillet with creamed horseradish, potato rosti and roast veg. Nothing fancy, but the juicy chunk of super-tender meat was as good as any I’ve ever tasted. Her sea bass went down well, too, and we loved our starters (scallops with puréed celeriac for her, pigeon breast on puy lentils for me).

Our shared lemon tart was a tangy delight, and the well- explained, two-tier local cheeseboard was fantastic. Service was friendly and brisk, although I thought that they pushed the informality a bit far by plonking our wine on the table without offering to pour it.

Next morning my big, tasty full English and her locally smoked salmon and pile of scrambled eggs fuelled us for the long journey home. The Stagg, we decided, is one of those places that merits a lengthy drive.

Bottom line: Les Dunn paid £90 for a double room, B&B.

Sampling the fare: Three courses with wine costs about £35 a head.

What we think: A Stagg worth hunting down.

Best thing: Great grub.

Worst thing: No shower.

Access all areas: No. All rooms are upstairs.

Need to know: The Stagg Inn & Restaurant (01544 230221, www.thestagg.co.uk), Titley, Kington, Herefordshire.

Room: 7 out of 10.
Food: 9 out of 10.
Service: 8 out of 10.

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