The hotel: Right on the border between Gloucestershire and
Oxfordshire, this former 16th-century cider house, set on a perfect Cotswold
village green, performs three functions with equal aplomb — country hotel,
quality restaurant and thriving, gossip-soaked local pub.
Two years ago, Archie Orr-Ewing abandoned his tenure of the North Pole
gastro-pub in west London, and wife Nicola left her flourishing hat-design
business, to take over the pumps here. They took a while to establish
themselves, but now the Kings Head is at the head of a very competitive
local pack. Nicola’s dedication to graceful design in the dining areas and
bedrooms blends perfectly with Archie’s commitment to running “a pub with
rooms”. This place welcomes regulars and darts matches just as gladly as
weekenders and wedding guests. Oh, and there’s the beef.
What’s the beef? Steaks, of course, which are renowned
throughout the land. They’re hung for 10 days and sourced from the Aberdeen
Angus herd on Archie’s uncle’s farm just down the road.
An ordinary tale of country folk, then? Actually, the folk
are pretty posh round here. The nearby market town, Stow-on-the-Wold, is a
showcase for every possible shade of labrador, and the well-heeled
population supports two outstanding delicatessens — Hampton’s (01451 831733)
on Digbeth Street specialises in fine English cheeses, while archrival
Maby’s (01451 870071), six doors down, is swamped with all manner of exotic
olives. And, as if that weren’t enough, there’s a nationally renowned
brasserie, Hamilton’s (01451 831700), round the corner on Park Street.
Anything to do here except eat? Walk it off. The north
Cotswold countryside makes for stunning year-round walking, with limitless
views and the bittersweet pleasure of seeing perfect honey-coloured villages
and cottages, where you’re not lucky enough to live.
You can get a sheet of country walks from the Kings Head, or pick up the
Explorer Walks leaflet from the Stow tourist office (01451 831082). The
nine-mile circuit from Bledington to Nether Wescote, Idbury and Bruern Abbey
is particularly pastoral, or you can head cross-country to the gorgeous
Chastleton House, possibly the finest Jacobean country house in Britain.
Can we go inside? You’re very welcome, provided you want to
go on Wednesdays to Saturdays, late March to early November, 1pm to 3pm or
4pm, by timed and preferably prebooked tickets (01494 755585; to book on the
day 01608 674355), £5.40 entry; no coach parties.
If you’re here midweek, a more convivial pilgrimage is a tour of the Hook
Norton brewery (01608 730384), to discover the origin of the area’s
best-loved pint. The visitors’ centre is open 9am to 5pm all week, but phone
ahead to ask for a tour.
Batsford Arboretum (01386 701441; open 10am to 5pm; £4 entry) is an excellent
botanical outing, particularly if you have children — they’ll be mesmerised
by the falconry display.
Something to do all year, then? Except possibly on the
weekend of September 22-23, when the Countryside Liberty and Livelihood
march is descending on London. Bledington, an unapologetic hotbed of rural
activism, will be a ghost town. You might want to earn brownie points by
fitting in with the local traditions: sign up at the Rob Ireland clay-
pigeon shooting school in Moreton-in-Marsh (01608 650 4130, £35 a lesson) —
it’s tremendous fun and even vegetarians can do it.
It all sounds lovely — I’ll pack the car. Steady on — Bledington is less than
a mile from Kingham railway station (0845 748 4950), which is 26 minutes
from Oxford and just 80 minutes from Paddington.
Well, how do we get around then? Scenic Cycles (07940 340939)
will actually deliver mountain bikes to the Kings Head, for £15 a day, or
£25 for the weekend. If you can leave the car behind, the Cotswolds will
thank you for it.
What should I bring? Walking boots, a sociable nature and an
empty stomach.
What shouldn’t I bring? Effete, politically correct,
Chardonnay-drinking-in-Islington opinions.
The Kings Head Inn (01608 658365, www.kingsheadinn.net):
doubles from £70-£100 per room, per night; full English breakfast included.
Minimum two-night stay at the weekends
