THREE modern British trends converge to dramatic effect at Mr Underhill's:
Michelin-starred nosh, restaurants with rooms, and rivers with a penchant
for serious flooding. When I visited last month the dining room, directly
beneath the ramparts of Ludlow Castle, had reopened only a few weeks before,
after its second drenching of 2007.
None of which appears to affect the hotel's popularity. Booking nine days
before my visit, the only accommodation left from its six doubles and three
suites was a four-person suite in the neighbouring 300- year-old miller's
cottage. It's great value, but expect filthy looks from the couple in the
petite second bedroom.
Offering classic views of Dinham bridge and the River Teme, Mr Underhill's
cosy, yet tasteful, contemporary style blends neutral tones, local
photographs and abstract artwork with dollops of warm wood furniture.
Serious attention has been paid to detail with L'Occitane smellies,
top-notch tea - one bag to each box - and fur-covered hot-water bottles.
Staff understand guests' priorities. They immediately pointed out the
restaurant's cold storage for food purchases - Ludlow's marketplace and
delis are a few minutes' walk away. But it's a shame they didn't offer to
help to take my luggage into the cottage's awkward rear entrance, and that
its sitting room is plagued by noise from the neighbouring suite.
But I hadn't come to Mr Underhill's to sit in my suite. The big draw is Chris
Bradley's Michelin-starred modern British cooking - and his seven-course
menu didn't disappoint. At its heart was a smoked haddock and scallop pasta
that performed a delicate dance with a light lemon sauce, and a slow roasted
fillet of beef, the perfect date for a miniature cottage pie and root
vegetables. “Local meat is exceptional,” said Chris's wife Judy. “It's the
closest we've found to Kobe beef.”
At £45 a head, the meal was fairly priced, backed up by a superb wine list
starting at £16 for a house bottle. The top bottle was a Château Margaux
'89: £390.
The airy dining room was full of foodie couples - guests often travel from
London - gazing lovingly into each other's broad bean and pea velouté. I'm
sure many were there for an identical reason: a rural weekend escape based
around excellent dining.
Mr Underhill's delivers both with panache.
Bottom line Ian Belcher paid £260 for a suite (four people £300),
breakfast included.
Sampling the fare £45 for a seven-course tasting menu.
What we think Ideal for a gourmet country weekend.
Best thing The food, with the riverside location a strong second.
Worst thing Inadequate soundproofing in the suite living room.
Access all areas No.
Need to Know Mr Underhill's (01584 874431, www.mr-underhills.co.uk),
Dinham Weir, Ludlow, Shropshire SY8 1EH
Room 8 out of 10
Food 9.5 out of 10
Service 9 out of 10
Value 9 out of 10
