The Peak District offers jaded townies a revitalising change of scene: fresh air, moorland walks, deep caves, stunning views, stately homes (notably Chatsworth), and dale farms studded with sheep.

Losehill House Hotel, tucked away in the Hope Valley, is a former Cooperative Holidays Association guest house – nostalgic photographs on the walls show high-minded folk taking healthy hols – that was modernised three years ago.

Now it is a comfortable base for a Peak District break; walkers are welcome, but the hotel avoids the austerity of some hill hotels. One of the original owners was an interior designer, and the decor and furnishings are modern and comfortable; not a hunting print to be seen. And, a real delight, there are interesting books and games throughout the public rooms and bedrooms.

On arrival – after one of those M1 journeys that makes one contemplate emigrating – we plunged into the outdoor hot tub with views across the valley to Winhill. Legend has it that once Losehill and Winhill went to war. No prizes for guessing the victor.

The Peak District is very definitely in the “North”, and the hotel staff, ranging from young people paying their way through studies to the owners, bent over backwards to help. My wife had forgotten to pack a swimsuit. No problem: she was offered a stylish range from which to borrow. Where should we walk? A rack of maps and guides (together with an enthusiastic receptionist) led us to an ideal route. Hotels frequently claim to be “homely”: Losehill House is.

Guests caught the mood, and sociable groups met at the neat bar and chatted over their drinks on the terrace above the sweeping lawns.

In the Peak District, you have to walk, and we enjoyed an undemanding six-mile loop above Ladybower and Derwent reservoirs. Golden plover rose from the heather, streams gurgled, and a lizard popped out of a dry-stone wall. Nothing could disturb the scene, not even mountain bikers.

A drink on the hotel terrace, and all was right with the world, although dinner later was a disappointment: ordinary chicken wings, prawn cocktails, overcooked vegetables and puddings with spray-on cream.

There is a framed postcard beside the bar. Clearly from a holidaymaker in those far-away Cooperative days and postmarked 1927, it reads: “Been here for the weekend – club weekend. Had a topping time in spite of the weather.” We also had a topping time... and good weather.

Bottom line: Robert Chesshyre paid £95 for a B&B double.
Sampling the fare: Unadventurous supper – breakfast was let down one day by soggy smoked haddock.
What we think: Peaceful, friendly, great outlook.
Best thing: Northern hospitality.
Worst thing: Slightly bossy notices on walls.

Need to know:
Losehill House Hotel, Edale Road, Hope, Derbyshire, S33 6RF
01433 621219
www.losehillhouse.co.uk

Access all areas: Lift to bedrooms, but not to pool and hot tub.
Room: 8.5 out of 10.
Food: 6 out of 10.
Service: 10 out of 10.

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