Without the dog muck, which attracted my son’s shoe like a magnet, The Elms would have been kiddie heaven. But Christian's messy shoe, courtesy of the hotel’s labrador, was a small price to pay when you consider the free crèche, brimful of toys, an outside play area, child meals and complimentary milk.

Devotees of Von Essen’s Luxury Family range have long called for a new addition to the stable of properties that service their UK peregrinations. But while The Elms, which joined the group in August, is just as family friendly, it is not as luxurious as its sister properties Ickworth and Moonfleet Manor.

When the brochure says the bedrooms have been “painstakingly restored to their former glory, a perfect blend of traditional and contemporary style”, the reality is a room my granny would be proud of; only the flat-screen TV with DVD qualifying as contemporary. The twin beds were pushed together because of lack of space and made up with sheets and blankets. There were no single duvets and, as we discovered to our horror, no mattress protectors. The “power shower” in the small bathroom was more of a dribble.

My 12-year-old niece, Charlotte, and I couldn’t get out of the room and down to dinner fast enough, having left Christian sleeping in his cot using the baby-listening service (babysitting is available at a pricey £50).

The Elms, Abberley, Worcester

The brochure says the bedrooms have been "painstakingly restored to their former glory", the reality is a room my granny would be proud of

Background

• Russell's of Broadway, Worcs

• The Lygon Arms, Broadway, Worcestershire

Related Internet Links

• Read more reviews of Worcestershire hotels

The food, though, turned out to be an extravaganza of Michelin-star quality with an unusual blend of flavours, marrying seared tuna with carpaccio of pineapple and pepper essence, and roast rump of lamb with celery and goat’s cheese ravioli. The peanut butter iced parfait was superb, but the pièce de resistance was a trolley heaving with delicious local cheeses – Hereford Hop and Lightwood Chaser.

A shame, then, that breakfast didn’t live up to the night before: the orange juice wasn’t fresh and the cooked breakfast wasn’t memorable.

But let’s not quibble. With both meals included in the £145 price I negotiated with the hotel after finding an internet deal, it was a bargain. And once the spa opens in April, there’s even more reason to return.

Bottom line: Jane Knight paid £145 for a room, including dinner and breakfast for two.
Sampling the fare: The à la carte menu cost an extra £10 a head and a child’s high tea £7.95.
Best thing: Kid-tastic
Worst thing: Not being warned about the wedding party with noisy music.

Need to know: The Elms, Abberley, Worcester WR6 6AT; tel. 01299 896 666; www.theelmshotel.co.uk

Access all areas: No.
Value: 8 out of 10.
Room: 4 out of 10.
Food: 9 out of 10 for dinner, 6 out of 10 breakfast.
Service: 7 out of 10
Child-friendliness: 9 out of 10.

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