First impressions: the White Hart has been an inn since the 15th century and has a colourful history that has seen it act as a billeting house for Cavalier soldiers during the English Civil War, defend itself against highwayman during the 17th and 18th centuries, and most recently act as the backdrop for the popular who-done-it television show, Midsomer Murders. The grey stone exterior and lead latticed windows hint at its history and are welcoming on a wintery night. The hotel sadly fronts onto the now fairly busy A4130 between Henley and Wallingford, but the bistro, which has windows onto the road, has been well soundproofed so diners are saved from the noise of rattling traffic, and distracted by the excellent food. Inside the interior has been sensitively restyled, with beams and walls painted matt white, verging on the bland but punctuated by colourful modern art. The anything-but-bland restaurant, goes one step further with its white leather sofa and red walls.

Why it's special: while the rooms are clean, comfortable and tastefully decorated, the real star here is the food, with a bistro open all week and a smarter restaurant on Friday and Saturday evenings. You could spend a quiet day in the village, which has two attractive churches and is surrounded by woodland traversed by footpaths, or ten minute’s away is Henley, with its river pubs, shops and the Kubu spa.

Hitting the sack: the 12 rooms are individually decorated in soft hues befitting their gastro-inspired names; Pistachio, Nougat, Butterscotch, etc. which sound more like a newly-named litter of Andrex puppies than contemporary bedrooms. The six rooms in the main building have more character than those in the outbuildings owing to the quirky features of the 15th Century inn. Our room in the outbuildings, Caramel, was spacious and almost entirely beige save a brightly coloured canvas above the bed and dark padded headboard. The décor and soft furnishings still looked new and the bathroom brand-spanking, although it was disappointing when the hot water run out on return from our seven-mile countryside walk. All rooms have a radio and CD player, Damana toiletries (not the Molton Brown promised on the website), tea and coffee plus organic hot chocolate and free bottled water. The lack of air conditioning may be a problem in summer.

Sampling the fare: the bistro’s two-course set lunch menu for £9.95, Monday to Thursday is a great deal, and the evening a la carte didn’t disappoint. Expecting a gastropub line-up of the posh bangers and mash sort we were surprised by the appearance of marinated tuna tartar (£5.50) and chicken liver and foie gras parfait with Muscat jelly (£4.95) to start. We followed this with monkfish spring roll, chilli risotto and pepper coulis (£16.95), which was fresh and just spicy enough, and the special of braised pork belly with mustard mash and haggis (£15.95). The smarter restaurant next door offers a three-course set menu for £35 or there’s a five-course taster for £55, which included roasted local pigeon and seared scallops, both excellent. The only thing both restaurants lacked was a few more customers – it would have been nice to have seen the lounge and bar with its open fire, patronised by people from Nettlebed rather than just out-of-towners like us. The bistro served a good breakfast with croissants that tasted freshly baked and an excellent smoked salmon and scrambled egg.

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Great Milton, Oxfordshire

The Manoir is pure Blanc - decadent and flawless; it's worth saving up for, says Ginny McGrath

Background

• Hotel du Vin, Henley-on-Thames, Oxon

• Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Great Milton, Oxfordshire

• Old Bank Hotel, Oxford

• The Plough, Clanfield, Oxfordshire

• The White Hart, Nettlebed, Oxfordshire

Background

• The Lamb, Burford, Oxfordshire

• The Old Parsonage Hotel, Oxford

• Randolph Hotel, Oxford

• Malmaison, Oxford

Related Internet Links

• More reviews of hotels Oxfordshire hotels

Access all areas: the hotel claims to be wheelchair accessible, but while there is a ramp into the reception and no steps into the bistro, the car park is gravelled. There is one room designated for wheelchair users.

What we think: The White Hart is great for a gastro-break, with the opportunity to walk off the excess in the local countryside or explore Henley, just down the road. The only thing that it lacks is a bit of atmosphere, which it needs from staff with better local knowledge, regulars in the bar and a time for the décor to age and soften.

Bottom line: room-only starts from £105 (Mon-Thurs), £125 (Fri-Sat) including VAT and continental breakfast.

Need to know: The White Hart Hotel, Nettlebed, Oxon. RG9 5DD, tel. 01491 641 245, www.whitehartnettlebed.com

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