When the Savoy was taken over by the luxury Canadian hotel group Fairmont in January last year, I wondered if this was the end of the Savoy in full English crustiness as we knew it. Under American investment ownership in 2003 the Grill had already lost its beloved meat trolley, and what a hoo-ha went with that!

But 18 months into the new acquisition, what’s happening? The receptionists’ dowdy uniforms have been replaced with sexy airline stewardess gear — fitted jackets, silk cravats and slimline skirts. Staff greet you in an “I’ve been on a greeting course” type of way.

To book, I reached a Canadian call centre, which interrogated me about my requirements. I said that I needed a twin room that didn’t stink of chemical cleaning products (“an allergy, ma’am?” — “er, yes,” I decided) and a window that opens. “All our windows open, ma’am.”

Once past the marvellous Art Deco panelling, portholes and curvy walls in the public areas, our generous-sized room with long windows that opened (on to an office block no less) was pure executive let. There were no chemical pongs, just two ample single beds (as requested) in crisp white linen, two armchairs with reading light, a big desk and a beautiful marble bathroom in 1930s style. Intelligent extras included electronic weighing scales, a proper hairdryer and removeable clothes hangers, both wooden and silk.

One area the corporate conference air doesn’t permeate is the American Bar, which is pure QE2. Graceful staff in white tuxedos and gold ties serve things such as “Savoy.com” or in my case a “Racing Lady” champagne.

Dinner in the informal “American style” Banquettes diner was bland, and the chef-patron (and Gordon Ramsay-protégé) Marcus Wareing couldn’t have been around judging by my gooey mayonnaise seafood starter. “He comes in two or three times a week,” we were told.

At breakfast we were given riverview seats. We were the only “ladies” in a sea of grey. It was like being in the first-class lounge at Dallas airport.

The heaving buffet sports American favourites such as blueberries and bagels and long gone is all that intimidating one boiled egg in a silver cloche nonsense. At £55 for two, you can understand why it’s hotshot territory.

But the prices. There’s sadly no haggling at front desk like in the early Nineties. Our room was £389, including breakfast plus a £60 shock VAT charge and then a mysterious “room charge” of £10. In a room costing £460, you would expect high-speed internet access to be free. No, that’s another £17.50. Service is slick and not intimidating. Want a jug of water? Three minutes later it’s in your room. As for value for money? Pass me the corporate Amex.

Bottom line: Jeannette Hyde paid £460, including breakfast.

Sampling the fare: Two starters, mains and drinks, £72.

What we think: Corporate America at play.

Best thing: The American Bar.

Worst thing: The prices.

Access all areas: Wheelchair- friendly rooms, but limited access to public areas.

Need to know: Savoy Hotel (020-7950 5492, www.fairmont.com), The Strand, London WC2.

Room: 8 out of 10 Food: 5 out of 10.

Service: 10 out of 10.

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Background

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