Visiting the London Marriott off Grosvenor Square — the latest central London hotel to get a multimillion-pound makeover — was like stepping in to a tiny bit of London that is the United States.

“How’s it going, brother?” I heard one concierge say to another as I checked in. “All right, my man!” responded his Eddie Murphy-sounding friend.

The reception has an Art Deco look, with lots of shiny mirrors, angled columns and open marble floor space; it reminded me of a foyer of an upmarket Chicago skyscraper.

Three quarters of the 236 rooms have been revamped in similar style (I had requested one). But when I checked in, the receptionist said that all new doubles were booked. In the end, I was upgraded to a new suite that was normally £50 more. Not bad.

It was US executive-slick: smart yellow and blue colours, comfortable sofa, marble bathroom, big black-and-white picture of Big Ben, large TV and a bonsai tree in a silver pot.

On the coffee table, maintaining the American feel, was a US edition of House & Garden and a copy of Business Destinations, with a story on beating transatlantic jetlag.

The hotel has two restaurants. Best known is Maze, an ultra-chic “Asian-French” Gordon Ramsay restaurant run by chef Jason Atherton. It was hailed as “newcomer of the year” by Time Out, and Giles Coren, in this paper, described it as “a mad, marvellous thing”.

I tried Cobalt, its neglected sister. It was , well. . . American. As fellow diners talked about Hurricanes Rita and Katrina — “I got outta there a week before she blew” — I ordered a steak salad starter and pan-fried skate.

Two courses cost £19; good value. I then went for coffee at Maze, with views past the Franklin Roosevelt statue to the US Embassy on the far corner of the square. It was buzzing; diners turning up after 10pm. All very NYC — in the heart of good old London Town.

Bottom line: Tom Chesshyre paid £276 for a double.

Sampling the fare: No reservations for Cobalt. Maze (020-7107 0000).

What we think: Good value for Mayfair.

Best thing: Fast service.

Worst thing: Room mix-up.

Need to know: London Marriott (020-7493 1232, www.marriott.co.uk/londt), 10-13 Duke Street, W1.

Access all areas: Yes.

Room: 9 out of 10.
Food: 8 out of 10.
Service: 9 out of 10.

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