The Waldorf has stiff competition: it’s next door to the much-fêted, award-winning One Aldwych, on the southern fringe of Covent Garden and theatreland. It’s also had a rocky few years of makeover and takeover, this spring emerging from a £30 million refurbishment of the 300 bedrooms and public areas, with Hilton taking over the hotel’s management from Le Meridien in the middle of the work.

So how does it now fare? My anonymous visit started with drinks in the stylish, dimly lit Homage Bar, which although busy with a Friday evening crowd easily yielded a good table by the window, and we had prompt and polite service.

Dinner in the restaurant, Homage Grand Salon, was a huge success. This beautiful room is at the heart of what the new Waldorf is about: a spectacular space that re-creates the experience of eating in one of the early 20th-century European cafés.

Diners surround the central, blue-lit bar (where the breakfast buffet appears in the morning), a modern touch in this Edwardian dining room with its gilded Ionic columns, elegant chandeliers and striking flower arrangements.

Both of our starters — black pudding, and a pepper salad — and main courses of lobster and Dover sole, were faultless, and service, if a little slow at first, was friendly.

Upstairs my simple, small double room was stylishly tricked out in cool neutrals enlivened with burnt orange cushions. The basics were right: comfortable brown leather chairs, proper hangers, clear telephone instructions, good lighting, spotless bathroom. On the minus side, the shower wasn’t that powerful, and UHT milk let down the good coffee that’s supplied in rooms.

Guests should at least poke their nose into the beautiful, English Heritage-listed Palm Court, used for functions; you can also take breakfast there. In the basement there’s a beautiful swimming pool in a pillared hall, accessed through an ugly leisure centre.

The hotel feels as if it is trying to shake off a corporate image (bland corridor carpets, a Corby trouser press lurking in the wardrobe) and attract the stylish crowd that drinks next door.

It’s heading in the right direction, and is good value for theatreland. Check that your rate includes breakfast, which costs £19.95 otherwise, even for continental. On Saturday morning the Grand Salon was packed with guests getting value for money by eating enough to see them through lunch.

Bottom line: Cath Urquhart paid £189 for a double room, B&B, booked through www.milesfaster.co.uk

Sampling the fare: £110 for two, for three courses with wine.

Need to know: The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, London WC2 (020-7836 2400, www.hilton.co.uk/waldorf).

Room: 6
Food: 8
Service: 10

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