The flashy marketing for Cannizaro House Hotel claims that the white mansion on the edge of Wimbledon Common has “always been a captivating beauty . . . known for its fun and frivolity”. Those of us who grew up in the South London suburb know, however, the story is not quite so.

For many years, Cannizaro was a rather grim care home populated by wistful pensioners staring out of tiny rooms, while its surrounding parkland was an A-list venue for the entire teenage population of SW19. “Let’s go to Canny” was code for enthusiastic lunch-hour consumption of a pack of B&H while meeting representatives from our, ahem, “brother” school. Heaps of fun then, but what would its reincarnation as a boutique hotel be like?

Sadly, our first visit was short-lived. Five minutes before our arrival, we were told that we had been double-booked. We were offered a bed in a nearby pub (no thanks) and a voucher for a free dinner as compensation (yet to materialise). Our second attempt was more successful, with the bonus that the trees in the Capability Brown-style surrounding are now in full leaf.

The setting is the best thing about Cannizaro. Where else in London can you look on to a verdant vista devoid of a single street or house light from your bedroom?

Unfortunately, Cannizaro House’s interior cannot live up to its brochure. With its arty pictures and sexy flowers, there are references to the chic hotel world, but there are cigarette machines in the hall and stained carpets in the bedroom. The hotel may boast about its “want to use” toiletries, but I didn’t want to take any of that plastic gunk. Nor was there the promised “nightcap” waiting; I probably didn’t want that, either, but if it’s been flagged up, you expect it. Perhaps it went the same way as our non-existent (but ordered) newspaper.

Supper in the “Common” restaurant was delicious, however, with excellent service. If you are a sworn veggie, though, eat beforehand — there was no vegetarian option among the (£19.50) main courses. The arrival of a fox outside caused general excitement, and my parents, who have lived in Wimbledon for about a century, pronounced the entire meal “delicious”.

My husband went for a run on the common in the morning and I wandered over the long grass outside, breathing in the air of a fresh summer’s day. If you want to meet tennis stars during the All England Championships, this is the place to go. If you want a stylish stay in a hotel with “rolling parkland” costing upwards of £150 a night, try the Cotswolds.

Bottom line: Rosie Millard paid £165 for a double room, including breakfast.

Sampling the fare: A three- course dinner for four cost £141.40, excluding wine.

What we think: Could do better.

Access all areas? Yes.

Best thing: Beautiful park outside.

Worst thing: Don’t believe the brochure.

Need to know: Cannizaro House (0870 3339124, www.cannizarohouse.com ), West Side, Wimbledon Common, London SW19.

Food: 6 out of 10.

Room: 2 out of 10.

Service: 8 out of 10.

Value: 2 out of 10.

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