First impressions: the hotel is on a cul-de-sac behind the Ritz hotel, where the noise levels from the traffic on Piccadilly drop a few decibels, offering a retreat from the bustle of Mayfair. I stayed in the lead-up to Christmas and the approach to the hotel was lined with fairy lights and fir trees. At other times of year the manicured window boxes that front the red brick façade are equally attractive. Elsewhere the Christmas decoration in the hotel lurched from the tasteful (red candles in the dining room) to the gaudy (a life-size Santa that bursts into song as you brush past him on the way to the bar).

The building was once a townhouse so the layout is quirky, with an elegant drawing room just off the reception and plush lounge outside the restaurant. Both opt for country house style, with richly patterned fabrics, opulent curtains, oil paintings and cases of antique jewellery fashioning a homely look, albeit the home of a wealthy, eccentric great aunt.

Why it's special: The Stafford is a Mayfair institution, although this genre is not exclusive to the hotel: the Ritz, Brown's and Dukes are other legendary properties near Green Park. With competition this stiff, there is a strong emphasis on service, and the immaculately dressed staff are courteous but not stiff, so the atmosphere is relaxed. One long-standing staff member is Gino Nardella, who has been the hotel's sommelier for 32 years and offers passionate advice and recommendations to diners.

Repeat guests - and there are a steady stream of them - are greeted by name and over breakfast the general manager wanders casually around the tables to make sure everyone is happy.

Hitting the sack: the 81 bedrooms and suites come in many guises, but one thing binds them - the décor. Like the reception and lobby it's not what most people would choose for their homes, but for a night in a traditional Mayfair hotel, it seems fitting. Another important point is that outdated does not mean dilapidated - furniture, carpets and fittings show no sign of wear and tear.

Of the 81 bedrooms, 68 are either normal or deluxe rooms with king or queen size beds. My deluxe king size room had a muted taupe/beige/cream colour scheme, with fern patterned wallpaper and curtains. Together with the gold-framed lithographic prints, the effect was expensive and understated, with hues a bit less garish than in other rooms. The grey and white marble bathroom had a huge, rapid-filling tub and shower and white towels and bathrobes were embossed with the racing green Stafford logo. Extras like iron and board, air conditioning, US and UK sockets, free wireless internet access, umbrella, laundry and so forth, were all there.

The other rooms are either suites or Carriage House rooms, which occupy an attractive row of former stables at the back of the hotel. Guests in these rooms have their own external door, and the experience is akin to staying in a neat mews house, which overlooks a cobbled street decorated with flower boxes and popular with overspill drinkers from the bar in the summer. The largest room is the duplex "Guv'nor's Suite" at the end of the mews, which has a library/dining room, kitchen, two bathrooms and 22-foot high window.

In spring 2007, the hotel will gain 26 suites when the Stafford Mews opens, a building opposite the Carriage House. The contemporary pale stone exterior is in contrast to the rest of the hotel buildings, and while the décor is more modern, it gives a nod to the Stafford's traditional styling. The suites will include a rooftop penthouse, which will offer great views and 100 square metres of space.

Sampling the food: Executive Chef Mark Budd is said to serve modern British dishes, but the French chatter emanating from the kitchen on the night I visited suggests a Franco-influence as well. Food is expensive here - an average £60 for three courses, but incredibly the dining room is bustling. Perhaps it's because eating here is a unique experience. The dining room, painted baby blue and lavishly plastered with coving and alfrescos, is candlelit and anything but understated. Service is exceptional, with waiters seemingly assigned jobs as specific as filling water or replacing napkins on the laps of diners who've returned to their seat. The 350-year old cellar is said to house 20,000 bottles of wine and the afore-mentioned sommelier, Gino Nardella, navigates you ably through them.

The pan fried Devon scallops and soufflé of lobster and sole starters were faultless - fresh fish and tasty, but not overly rich sauces. Next we had a panache of seafood, a colourful and imaginative collection of steamed, poached and primped fish, and the roasted seabass, which were both excellent. Meat options were also available including pheasant, lamb and wild duck, although the offer on the menu of Dover sole, served four different ways, suggests fish is a speciality. The raspberry soufflé was worth the 20-minute wait and the cheese trolley had a good selection of gooey and hard cheeses.

At breakfast a buffet is eschewed in favour of table service with a choice of continental (£17.50), cooked (£19.50) or speciality breakfast (£19.50). Specialities were mostly calorific options such as waffles, pancakes and French toast (which was a disappointment - too thin and soggy). The kippers were excellent but the scrambled egg was a let down, with a greasy aftertaste and dull pale yellow tone.

In the American Bar (pictured above), the green leather studded banquettes and cluttered American memorabilia, including baseball caps, model planes and American football helmets, is an assault on the senses, although this doesn't dent the bar's popularity. The manager claims to offer a martini that is superior to the infamous cocktail served in nearby Dukes, and the whisky collection is extensive. In the afore-mentioned lounge pre-dinner drinks and afternoon tea are served.

Access all areas: the hotel is wheelchair accessible and interior doors are also wide enough for wheelchairs. In addition rooms have wheelchair accessible bathrooms equipped with hand rails, shower seat and emergency alarm cord (linked directly to reception). There are also low level light switches and a vibrating pillow alarm for deaf guests in case of fire.

Added attractions: there's no gym, swimming pool, or spa here, but it's the personal service and exclusive feel of the hotel that brings guests back.

What we think: a taste of hotel service of old, with the opulent décor to match, but this hotel is only a consideration if your wallet is bulging.

Bottom line: a double room with a queen sized bed costs from £250 plus VAT, a deluxe double room from £270, a junior suite from £405 and a Carriage House room from £445.

Need to know: The Stafford, St James's Place, London, SW1A 1NJ; tel. 020 7493 0111; www.thestaffordhotel.co.uk ; information@thestaffordhotel.co.uk

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